Just so we're clear, on the dark green / orange wire, the test light should light up for one second after turning on the ignition switch, turn off, then turn on only during cranking. It must go off within about one second when you stop cranking. If that's what's happening, the Engine Computer is turning on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay as it should. On the '90s models that would prove the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are working. Both have to send signals to the computer to tell it the engine is rotating before it will turn on the ASD relay. That relay is what switches on the 12 volts for the injectors, ignition coil, alternator field, oxygen sensor heaters, and fuel pump or pump relay. If either sensor failed while driving, the engine would stall.
Beginning on some 2000 models one of those two sensors could fail while driving and the ASD relay would stay on and the engine would run on a backup strategy, but once the engine was stopped it would not restart. To verify that you need a scanner to view live data. Under the "Sensors" menu you would watch the cam and crank sensors during engine cranking. They will be listed as "present" or "no". If both are present you have an ignition system problem or a fuel supply problem. If either sensor is listed as "no", both the ignition and fuel supply systems will be dead.
Until we learn differently, we can assume both sensors are working since the ASD relay is turning on. With no spark that leaves the ignition coil, wires to it, and the Engine Computer. You already replaced the coil, and you measured 12 volts to it. Put your test light on the other small coil wire and see what happens during engine cranking. If it's on steady the computer is not switching it or there's a break in that wire.
No mechanic likes to throw a computer at a problem because it introduces too many new variables, and it rarely solves a problem like this, and before you do, you can use the scanner in "Actuator Test Mode", (ATM) to command the Engine Computer to fire the ignition coil. That will instantly tell you whether the circuit is working or if there's a problem in the computer.
Was that a new or used crank sensor you installed? Did it have a thick paper spacer stuck on the end, or a thin plastic rib molded in?
Tuesday, April 30th, 2013 AT 7:15 PM