Engine problems of stalling?

Tiny
PROPERMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 263,197 MILES
I have the same problem of the user in Rockport Texas. My sentra was put in the local Nissan dealership for the problems of stalling, hestations. At certain speeds it would stutter. Was told that the mass air flow sensor might be bad. Nissan doesn't make the part anymore. All of the systems on the car check out. I noticed that the owner in Rockport had theirs changed and no inmprovement. Checked for vacuum air leaks, fuel pump. Fuel induction cleaning was done by dealer as well as timing belt changed. Any help would be appreciated.
Troy
Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 11:28 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It sounds like the ignition coil is going out but to be sure lets run down this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check the fuel pressure, Test the airflow meter, idle speed control valve and throttle position sensor-


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_sentra_88_1.jpg

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Friday, July 3rd, 2009 AT 12:34 AM
Tiny
GIFERCJ7
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1985 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
My mom has a 85 nissan sentra. For years, really, years, she's a patient lady, but for years it just stops without warning. She usually pulls over and waits for help to arrive. If she waits over three hours, the car will start and usually allows her to make her 20 mile round trip to the store and back home. It happens after the car has reached full operating temperature. She has not be able to identify any other common circumstances.

Many, many mechanics have helped her and even referred each other. No one can identify the cause. We all think it is heat realted. I checked all the gas lines for proper routing and the required insulation looking for vapor lock clues.

Everytime she gets it towed to a shop or if a service man comes to her location, the car ends up starting. So, that makes it difficult for the guys to determine if it is electrical or fuel related! Then. When a shop keeps the car and drives it, they evidently do not drive it enough to get it to die. Or, they drive it much harder than my mom, and something from that style "keeps it from happening".

What has been done? Replaced. Carburator, fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, full distrubuitor assembly. I do not beleive any other electrical componets have been replaced. However, a visual inspection of all the electrical connections that have to do with ignition has been completed. I don't know if the coil has been replaced or not. She has had it regularlly tuned up over the 20+ years she has owned it

Like I said, a lot of the troubleshooting has been process of elimination. And yet to eliminate the root cause.

It is winter in Tennessee, and over the years, we have noticed the weather does not matter. I do not live near my mom, or I could try to help with a little more consistancy.

Are there some heat related electrical components under the hood that we should consider replaceing, inspecting, etc? I had a 86 Z that had a power transistor that would overheat and cause a similar symptom.

I'm not sure if she had taken it to the dealer; but if she did, they told her that they could not troubleshoot it unless they could recreate the problem, as several mechanics have struggled with.

She lives in Maryville, Tennessee if there are resources you may recommend.

Thanks,

John
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
John:
It is hard to identify a problem when it doesn't happen to the person driving. After reading your post, I do have a couple ideas, but I have to say without being there, it really becomes a guessing game. You see, when the engine dies for her, I assure you either the ignition system (spark to plugs) has stopped working or she is losing fuel pressure. Since it has gone on for so long, my first guess would be a bad crank sensor or something related to the ignition system. The only way to be 100% sure is to check those items when it won't start. I don't know where you live in relations to her, but is there any chance you could trade vehicles for a few days and I can explain what to check for if it happens to you? Do you think she would be able to check if I provided directions? One last thing. Has she ever noticed any black smoke coming from the exhaust before it dies?
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GIFERCJ7
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks. My thinking is the same as yours, except I do not live close enough to help her. She has a B210 Datsun that has been out of service for a while, with the same basic engine and powertrain. The motor runs; it is just a mess inside and needs tires. When I go home this summer, I will look at the relays and other electrical components for any suspect; smell and look for wear. I will do some research and swap out some electrical parts if they are like for like, from the Datsun, or, if the parts are too expensive, consider a few new electrical component replacements.

In the meantime, I will tell her to keep her eyes and ears open for any other symptoms she might notice just prior to the occurance if there is any.

Thanks,

John
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Glad to help
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUHJUAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1984 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 92,000 MILES
Feels like it is not getting gas. Shut off engine an car restarts.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

If the check engine light is staying on, the first thing you need to do is have the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. That will point us in the right direction. Most parts stores will do it for free. Here is a quick video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Have this done and let me know what code or codes are found.

Here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-top-ten-reasons

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-is-it-safe-to-drive

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-clear-codes

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALEAVY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • NISSAN SENTRA
I have a 200o Nisssan Sentra that all of a sudden is acting up. It starts fine but when you are driving it or even when it is sitting idle it sputters ans sometime stalls. But then immediately starts right up again. I am thinking this may be the fuel pump or fuel line? Any suggestions would be welocome. Car has 150,000 miles on it and just has a full tune up maybe two months ago.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRPOWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a 2001 Altima that has the same problem. When stopped at a light, it first idles smoothly and then after 20-25 seconds, it starts to idle roughly. I also got an engine light with the P0300 code *multiple random misfires". I changed the plugs, wires, rotor, and distributor cap. Also I changed the oxygen sensor. With no changed to the problem.

Next on my list is to check the fuel filter, air filter and intake manifold for leaks.

If your car's symptoms are similar, you might want to check some of the same items.

I will let you know if any of the actions fixes the problem.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Fuel filter/PCV valve/EGR
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANDREIR
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
2 aleavy,
check the Mass air flow. In my case it did exactly what you described and didn't turn the check engine light on. The new part is very expensive. I was lucky enough to get mine from a scrap yard for 20$ (my car is a 94 though).
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LYNSWIL25
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • NISSAN SENTRA
The next day after a rain storm, the car has problems turning over. It takes a while but once it eventually starts. It idles for heavy and does jerky movements. The RPMs go up and down when this happens. When you put it into Drive and accelerate the car stalls out. You can't accelerate too fast of it stalls every time. Only after about 20-30 minutes of this it stops. I assume cause underneath of the car it is dry now. I don't exactly know what is wrong with it. I have 114,000 miles and it is an automatic car. ? My service engine light is also on, but has been for quite some time now and haven't always had this problem until about this past year.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
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You need to find what codes are in the computer for starters.

Another easy test you can do is to start the engine and mist some water on the spark plug wires and see if there is a change in the runnability or any visable arcing.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM (Merged)

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