Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?
The window will not go up in one case without help.
The window would not stay up if lifted manually (do support the window so it doesn't free-fall and break) and would not power upward at all in another case.
You will typically find the cables used to motivate the regulator come out and get caught up in the regulator mechanism which is what causes this problem.
If you can hear the motor still working even if the window is not.....you only need to replace the regulator and not the motor.
The Doorman is an OEM replacement for this car and seems to be the exclusive aftermarket supplier, 740-148 for the driver side and 740-149 for the passenger side.....rockauto.com had a good price. This product has a lifetime warranty from Doorman according to their web site...you just need to keep proof of purchase, but you have to mail the part in to get a replacement part.....not very practical if you have a window stuck down while you wait for weeks to get a replacement...
The links to the products and warranty details...
Drivers side: http://www.dormanproducts.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=740-148
Passenger side: http://www.dormanproducts.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=740-149
Warranty Info: http://www.dormanproducts.com/documents4rb/warranty/DOE2006_warranty.pdf
I could get the part from rockauto.com overnighted for about the same price as local pick-up. Local parts shops needed 2-3 days for delivery....I ordered on a Wednesday night and had it by noon on Friday....if you don't need overnight service then you can save a few bucks....Rockauto.com wanted 55.79 for the drivers side part, and 20.40 for overnight shipping.....you can get 5% off if you search for an online coupon code for rockauto.com. Nissan wanted $161....ouch....nothing like 300-400% markup....and I'm sure rockauto.com isn't giving the part away:-) It took one business day longer to receive the passenger side regulator sent via FedEx ground for $7.59. Of course where you live will affect your price and performance for shipping.
You may be asking "Can I do this myself?" If I can do this...I'm pretty sure you can...especially since I have given you a detailed roadmap (Unless everything you touch disintegrates in your hands and Murphy's law rules supreme in your home...then maybe you want to pay a good shop or dealer).....I hope I didn't leave anything out (I did do this from memory)....no promises.....but your surprises should be pretty small. If you are handy, then this job is a no brainer. Just give yourself plenty of time.....if you are afraid you won't get it back together, then take pictures or a video as you work so you have a visual reference to fall back upon and/or make some notes as you go.
Now for the bottom line....how much can I save for doing this job myself vs. the dealer?
table columns="5" cellpadding="1" cells=";Drivers Side;;Passenger Side;;;rockauto.com;Nissan;rockauto.com;Nissan;Parts;$56 + Shipping;$161;$60 + Shipping;$191;Tools/supplies;$20 est.;$0;$20 est.;$0;Labor;Sweat, blood, and the $$ Cost of a BBQ;$209;Sweat, blood, and the $$ Cost of a BBQ;$209;Time; 2 hours;Trip to/from Nissan + 2 hours (provided they can get you right in)...A good dealership might 'give' you a rental car.; 2 hours; Trip to/from Nissan + 2 hours (provided they can get you right in)...A good dealership might 'give' you a rental car.;Total;$76 + shipping and BBQ;$370;$80 + shipping and BBQ;$370"
So in my case where I need to repair both sides I am able to save about $600 over the dealership!!! Now $600 IS a lot of BBQ (8-P)
You might be able to find a local auto shop that may do the job a little cheaper than the dealership, but I wouldn't expect it to be more than 100-200 less than the dealership.
What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
The box contained just the part in a sealed plastic bag.....no instructions or warranty information.
You may need a sealer for the soundproofing material in the door....I was able to re-stick it acceptably.
You will need a 10mm socket; #2 Phillips, #3 Phillips, slotted screwdrivers; needle nose pliers; scraper/utility knife; rags/shop/paper towels; window cleaner; vinyl gloves (opt).
DON'T FORGET: You will need 1 or 2 friends to help you support the window (good excuse for a BBQ).....wives and teenagers get a little impatient holding the window (I learned from experience) (:-D). There may be a tool professionals use to hold the glass securely, but I have no such animal in my tool arsenal....and what are friends and family for anyway....just make sure you don't complain when they ask YOU to do something that isn't so fun:-)
Repair / Installation tips:
Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
I needed about 3-4 hours to do this with no useful instructions and doing this for the first time (I'm not that handy to start with)....Now that I have a procedure I expect I can do the passenger side in 1.5 to 2 hours as it should almost be a mirror image of the drivers side.
Instructions for changing the driver's side regulator:
CAUTION: You will be working around metal surfaces....some of them can be sharp....so be careful...vinyl gloves may be a help here or thin work gloves.
CAUTION: Manuals instruct you to remove the battery cables... I didn't disconnect power (DO MAKE SURE KEY IS OFF so power is not applied to the power window circuit), but in the time it took I did run my battery down (interior lights are on) enough that I had to jumpstart because I have a battery that is not in the best condition...
WARNING: IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE AROUND/KNOWLEDGEABLE OF ELECTRICITY THEN I WOULD SUGGEST THE EXTRA STEP OF DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU START!!!
CAUTION: If you disconnect the battery and use your trip meters to track mileage (i.e.: tracking oil changes or gas mileage) then make sure you record the data first before disconnecting the battery as you will lose your data.
Now onto the meat of the job:
#1 remove 2 Philips screws from door that both have covers (one in armrest and one upper right as you look at the door).
#2 Pull out power window/power mirror assembly and disconnect 2 connectors.
#3 Snap out the plastic trim ring around the door handle.
#4 Use a large flat blade screwdriver to pry the inner door panel fasteners loose from their holes and lift off of top lip.
#5 (May not be applicable to all) Push out the automatic seat/mirror memory module and disconnect connector on upper right and disconnect connector for courtesy light on lower left.
#6 The inner door panel should be free to remove at this point and store out of your way.
#7 Remove 3 #3 Phillips screws/bolts for metal armrest support.
#8 Remove 2 #3 Phillips screws/bolts for tweeter speaker and disconnect connector.
#9 Remove 4 #2 Phillips screws and remove bass speaker from speaker baffle and disconnect connector.
#10 Remove 4 #3 Phillips screws/bolts and remove the speaker baffle.
#11 use scraper/utility knife to separate the sound deadening liner from the metal door (try not to cut the liner or scratch your paint)...you will need to pull back the lining to a vertical point where the bass speaker housing area is fully exposed (make sure you can access the power window motor in the opening above the speaker hole pulling any wiring harnesses through the liner to facilitate moving the liner out of your way).
#12 Re-connect the power window/power mirror assembly, reconnect power (if necessary), turn on ignition and adjust window to about midway so you can access bolts to disconnect window from the regulator...once done turn off ignition, remove battery cables (if desired) and disconnect power window/power mirror assembly.
#13 SUPPORTING THE GLASS: Use 10mm socket and remove 2 bolts holding glass to regulator....manually move glass up (like window normally closed) and SUPPORT THE GLASS with appropriate tool or 1-2 assistants. These 2 bolts are unique and should be separated from the rest.
#14 Use 10mm socket and remove 4 bolts holding the regulator track to the door (2 upper and 2 lower).
NOTE: The old regulator is greasy and dirty...and the new regulator will have a lot of grease applied...
#15 Use needle nose pliers and disengage the holder that is securing the power window motor connector to the inside to the metal door panel (right next to the hole where the power window motor can be seen) then pull out the excess wire and disconnect the power window motor.
#16 Use 10mm socket to remove 3 bolts securing the power window motor/window regulator assembly to the door and remove through the large hole where the regulator track can be seen.
#17 Use #3 Phillips to remove 3 screws securing the power window motor to the regulator...MAKE SURE TO NOTE MOTOR ORIENTATION TO REGULATOR TO AID IN REASSEMBLY. Attach power window motor to new window regulator with the 3 #3 Phillips screws. NOTE: slight movement of the regulator track may be necessary to help align the regulator with the motor to facilitate re-assembly.
#18 Remove old regulator completely and discard.
#19 Reinsert new window regulator into door cavity and hang the power window motor/window regulator assembly in the appropriate spot...Use 3 10 mm bolts to secure power window motor/window regulator assembly.
#20 Align and attach the window regulator track with the 4 10 mm bolts (2 upper and 2 lower). The track comes from the factory oriented in such a way to facilitate easy re-connection of the window.
#21 Carefully lower the glass and re-attach to the window regulator with 2 10 mm bolts (different than the rest).
#22 Re-connect the power window motor to the electrical harness and secure to the door with existing holder.
#23 Temporarily re-connect the power window/power mirror assembly, reconnect power (if necessary), turn on ignition and verify everything works as expected. When satisfied, turn off ignition, remove battery cables (if desired) and disconnect power window/power mirror assembly.
#24 Replace the sound deadening liner back in place making sure you re-insert the wiring harness back through the liner in the same locations they were before you started...the adhesive may re-stick to the metal surface...if not you will need some sort of adhesive to re-stick the liner.
#25 Replace the bass speaker baffle and secure with 4 #3 Phillips screws/bolts.
#26 Re-attach bass speaker to wiring harness and secure with 4 #2 Phillips screws to speaker baffle.
#27 Re-attach tweeter speaker to wiring harness and secure with 2 #3 Phillips screws/bolts.
#28 Re-attach metal armrest support with 3 #3 Phillips screws/bolts.
#29 Get inner door panel and re-attach the automatic seat/mirror memory module and courtesy light to the wiring harness if applicable.....support door panel to not strain wiring harness.
#30 Slide the inner door panel over the top lip and press fasteners into holes to secure inner door panel to metal door.
#31 Snap in the plastic trim ring around the door handle
#32 Re-attach the power window/power mirror assembly to the 2 connectors on the wiring harness and insert into the armrest.
#33 Secure the door panel with the 2 Philips screws and cover with the original covers.
#34 Re-connect power (if necessary), turn on ignition and verify everything works as expected. Ensure the door panel is secure. Test drive vehicle to ensure no squeaks/rattles and proper operation of all components removed and replaced. Address issues as needed.
#35 Keep a proof of record for warranty issues if desired.
#36 Enjoy your BBQ and the $$$ you saved by doing it yourself vs. the dealership!!!
Saturday, May 15th, 2010 AT 4:24 PM