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Hard to start and loss of power

Tiny
KNOLLSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 78,000 MILES
Sometimes the car is hard to start and seems to lose power when the outside temp is hot and the car is warm. The hard starting problem seems to be getting gradually worse. Is this a fuel problem or electrical. Car seems to run good otherwise.
Wednesday, August 28th, 2013 AT 6:51 PM

36 Replies

Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Any service engine light on soon or check engine light?

These guides will help us fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Wednesday, August 28th, 2013 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
KNOLLSTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No
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Thursday, August 29th, 2013 AT 4:22 AM
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Have the Mass air flow sensor checked because it is an easy check. If no debri or build up is found on the hot film wires then is sound like an electrical issue. If there is build up then clean the sensor with an aerosol spray that is designed to clean mass air flow sensors. If this does not help then you may just need a professional to diagnose it.
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Friday, August 30th, 2013 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
KVLEF911
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 14,000 MILES
Hello,

I have a 2004 nissan maxima se and for the past week it has been giving me problems starting. It will turn over with no problem, but it is like it is not getting gas. Especially after I stop to go to the store or if it has been shut off for a short period of time it is worse to where I have to keep cranking it for 5-10 minutes (not continuous) before it will finally turn over. If it has been sitting for the night or the 8-9 hours I'm at work it will usually start on the first crank. I was told it was the mass air flow sensor, so I changed that out, but still no better. It has 140,000 miles and the plugs have not been changed. Could that be the issue? HELP!
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Lets start by taking it to a auto parts store like auto zone and have them scan your car for codes. Let me know the exact code numbers you have not code descriptions if you have any.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
More likely to be an ECT or knock sensor problem. Let us have the codes.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DJCL
  • MECHANIC
  • 767 POSTS
Spark plugs will not do that. A coolant temp sensor might but will have to be tested when its not starting. Getting codes is the best place to start
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Two moderators have already said that now lol.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KVLEF911
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I got the codes and there are 2. One is P0340 which states the camshaft position sensor (CMP) circuit. The other says 02 sensor Bank 1. Are these an easy fix? Where are they located? Thanks
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Trouble codes does not necessarily mean the component is/are faulty so it is best to test and confirm the part is bad. Loose or contaminated wiring connectors are common causes for trouble codes. A faulty PCM can cause the same so if you are to replace parts first, be prepared for eventualities. The camsensor code is rather troublesome as quite often replacing the sensor does not work.

O2 sensor bank 1 is located on front exhaust tube assy.
For P0340, the testing procedures are rather lenghty so would you be able to perform the tests with a DVOM?

Camshaft sensors (PHASE) are located at end of cylinder head, one on each head.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMAJ9447
  • MEMBER
  • 78 POSTS
  • 2003 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95 MILES
During rutine intown driving conditions, between40 and 50 mph there seems to be a gurggling sound. Sounds like low octaine. We have 95k miles on it. Recently replaced plugs with oem, ran a tank with sea foam, ran a tank of 93 oct gas, with no change. Average mpg is 23. Also noticed a few times it seems to turnover more than normal when starting.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
It is not easy to understand noises over the net so unless you can be very specific about the noise and its occurrence under specific conditions, it would not be easy for us to help you.

Is the Check Engine Light indicating and have you tried to retrive for trouble codes?

Some trouble codes do not trigger the CEL and does not have any freeze frame data so it is best to get the scan done with a scan tool plugged in.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMAJ9447
  • MEMBER
  • 78 POSTS
Okay, I will try to explain it better. When slowly accelerating from 45 to 50 I hear what sounds like a low octaine gurgle or pinging. This happens no other time through out the driving range. Seems to idel smoothly and has plently of power. The only other sound I can relate it to is the sound a diesel engine make when it is at idel. I am working on having a scan done, will let you know the results.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
When the knock sensor fails, it can emit abnormal noises and this sensor does not trigger the MIL. Wil be waiting for your results of the scan.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMAJ9447
  • MEMBER
  • 78 POSTS
Well I am not sure if I should be happy or not the scan results returned that everything is operating within normal ranges. Sigh
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
It could be a mechanical problem and since you are not able to detect it, guess it is time to get professional on the spot advice as it is not possible to detect noises online.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMAJ9447
  • MEMBER
  • 78 POSTS
Update. This afternoon the car shutoff while pulling out of a parking spot. Put it in park, started it, and proceeded to leave the parking lot when again it shut off. Repeated the above and drove it to next destination aprox. 6 miles with it still producing the gurggle sound mentioned before. Any ideas?
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
The engine stalling could be due to a dirty throttle body, IAAC and IACV. GEtting them cleaning should solve the problem of the stalling.

As to the gurgling noise, it would have to depend on where it is coming from.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMAJ9447
  • MEMBER
  • 78 POSTS
Update, threw a code that the canshaft sensor (bank2). Where is bank2, left or right, front or back? I see both sensors one on each cam, not sure how to locate which one is bank1 and bank2.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Bank 2 is the one in front of vehicle.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM (Merged)

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