First, a quick overview of what should be in a kit and the items to check and change.
A clutch kit should come with the following;
sometimes, High Temp Grease
On most 4 cylinders it is reccomended that the flywheeel be replaced if it needs a new surface, (if it is grooved, burnt or has a ridge), because they are too thin to resurface. Thisis because they are made to save on gas mileage and do not have enough material to have the surface re-machined.
You can get away with wet-dry or emery paer in a cross hatch pattern toi brake the galze and provide a new surface for the clutch to break into, it depends on how long you are keeping it, budget, etc.
Check the following and replace as needed;
Clutch master cylinder and Slave cylinder for leaks
Clutch hase for cracks and leaks
Pivot Arm itself and Fulcrum point for excessive wear
Replacing the clutch is as follows;
Remove clutch pressure plate in a pattern by incrementaly loosening every other bolt s to relieve spring pressure
Keep hardware in same plces they came from
Clean all surfaces and use hiogh temp grease on the Throwout bearing slide surface around input shaft
Install pilot bearing into flywheel
Grease Flucrum point of actuation arm
Install flywheel and torqu bolts to spec in star pattern
Do the same with Flywheel
Replace Clutch fluidas you would brake fluid by pumping and holding pedal to floor, with assistant help, until fluid is free of dirt and air
Socket and ratchet set
Clutch alignment tool, (if not included in kit)
Service manual or Haynes Service guide for manufaturer torque specs
Now is a quick overview.
Of course there are the inevitable variables. Tools needed to bleed out clutch system are same as brakes.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Thursday, November 11th, 2010 AT 3:57 AM