1995 Lincoln Town Car Car not starting on occaision

Tiny
LEROYSUTLIFF
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I swear it is the engine control computer intermittently acting up but I don't see any other answers to verify this. I had this exact same problem with another car computer. How can you test it? It will crank but not catch.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 2:10 PM

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Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I Any additional info you can think of? Does it only do it when hot? Cold? After you drive then after a short soak, you try to start it and get the problem? Does it die while running? Or just does it anytime? Is check engine light on? How long ago was your last complete tune up?
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
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It seems to happen when they take short trips and shut off the car. Also it will happen internittently just trying to start it. No engine light on, does not die while running. The car was recently given to my son so not sure of last tune up. Car runs great while running.
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I would check fuel pump pressure to include a check of the fuel pressure regulator, and change the plugs for a fresh set, probably not the computer, no codes stored if light is not on. The light does prove out during start up? Comes on with key in on possition? then goes off after starting? Heres a link to a vidoe on how to test fuel pressure. Dont forget a new fuel and air filter, and a PCV.
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
Pressure is 35-45 psi
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Thursday, July 30th, 2009 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
LEROYSUTLIFF
  • MEMBER
I checked the fuel pump pressure including a check of the fuel pressure regulator. What I find is when I have the key in the on position, the fuel pressure only goes up to 2psi and the car will not start. I let it sit for a solid minute with the key on and the guage hooked up. I heard a click (this does not always happen) and the fuel pressure went up to 10 psi and the car would start. Once started the fuel pressure goes uo to 32psi. When I remove the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator the pressure does go up 8psi. When I rev the gas the pressure goes up 5psi. I replaced the fuel pump relay, checked the fuel pump fuse and wiring coming from realy and fusebox as well but problem still persists. The engine light does work and does not come on any other time aside from start up (which it's supposed to do). When the car is runing is runs great (no cutting out, loss of power or dying), just passed emissions as well. The video was very helpful! What do you suggest next?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Pressure with key on engine off should be 35-45 psi.
Also ohm out the injectors, should be 11-18 ohm accross the two terminals of each injector. If 32 psi is all you get, then the pump itself could be on the way out. Check wires to the pump, if OK pump is probably the bad part here. Have you replaced the fuel filter? If not replace it now and retest pump pressure. To build pressure faster, cycle the key on for 2-3 seconds, and then off, repeat a few times. Relay energizes the pump for 2-3 seconds until an RPM signal is recieved by the PCM to power the pump. This is the BOOK on Lincoln fuel delivery.
4. Check Fuel Pressure Turn ignition off. Install fuel pressure gauge. While observing gauge, turn ignition on; wait one second and turn ignition off for 10 seconds. Repeat procedure 5 times. If fuel pressure increases, go to next step. If fuel pressure does not increase, go to appropriate step as follows: On Cougar and Thunderbird, go to CIRCUIT TEST X, step 150). On Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis and Town Car, go to CIRCUIT TEST HC, step 1).
CIRCUIT TEST HC - FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM Diagnostic Aids Perform this test when directed by QUICK TEST or if directed by other test procedures. This test is used to diagnose: Fuel pressure. Fuel filter. Fuel return. Fuel supply. Fuel injector. Engine vacuum systems. Chassis components. CIRCUIT TEST ACRONYMS 1. Check System Integrity Turn ignition off. Inspect fuel system for leaks, damage or kinked hoses. Inspect wiring harness for damage or loose connectors. Ensure battery is fully charged and fuses are okay. If vehicle does not start, ensure vehicle has fuel in tank and inertia switch is set correctly. Repair or replace as necessary. If no faults are found, go to next step. 2. Check Fuel Pressure Release fuel system pressure. Turn ignition off. Install fuel pressure gauge. Connect scan tester to DLC. Turn ignition on. Access scan tester Output Test Mode. Operate fuel pump at maximum fuel pressure. For fuel pressure specifications, see FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS article. If fuel pressure is as specified, go to next step. If fuel pressure is not as specified, go to step 9). 3. Check System Ability To Hold Fuel Pressure With fuel pressure gauge installed, turn ignition off. Exit Output Test Mode. If fuel pressure remains within 5 psi of specification for 60 seconds, go to step 5). If fuel pressure does not remain within 5 psi of specification for 60 seconds, go to next step. 4. Check Pressure Regulator Diaphragm WARNING: Fuel system remains under high pressure even when engine is not running. To avoid injury, release fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel system hose or component. Acronym Definition DLC Data Link Connector PID Parameter IdentificationWith fuel pressure gauge installed, start engine and operate for 10 seconds. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds. Start engine again and operate for 10 seconds. Turn ignition off. Disconnect and inspect hose from fuel pressure regulator. If hose is wet with fuel, replace fuel pressure regulator. If hose is dry, go to step 11). 5. Check Fuel Pressure; Test Drive Vehicle With fuel pressure gauge installed, disconnect and plug fuel pressure regulator hose. Ensure fuel pressure gauge can be seen by vehicle operator. Drive vehicle while noting gauge reading during heavy acceleration. If gauge reading stays within 3 psi of original pressure reading, go to next step. If gauge reading does not stay within 3 psi of original pressure reading, go to step 8). 6. Check Fuel Pressure Regulator; Test Drive Vehicle With fuel pressure gauge installed, reconnect fuel pressure regulator hose. Install vacuum gauge to intake manifold. Ensure both gauges can be seen by vehicle operator. Drive vehicle while noting gauges during heavy acceleration. Gauge readings should be as follows: Fuel pressure gauge reading increases and vacuum gauge reading decreases. Fuel pressure gauge reading decreases and vacuum gauge reading increases. If gauge readings are correct, fuel system is okay and testing is complete. If gauge readings are not correct, go to next step. 7. Check Vacuum Supply Turn ignition off. Disconnect and plug fuel pressure regulator hose. Install vacuum pump to fuel pressure regulator. Start engine and operate at idle. Observe fuel pressure gauge while applying vacuum to regulator. If fuel pressure changes as vacuum changes, system is okay and testing is complete. If fuel pressure does not change as vacuum changes, replace fuel pressure regulator. 8. Check Fuel Filter Turn ignition off. Connect scan tester to DLC. Replace fuel filter. Turn ignition on. Enter Output Test Mode (OTM) and operate fuel pump. Compare fuel pressure gauge readings. For fuel pressure specifications, see FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS article. If fuel pressure is as specified, system is okay. Return to step 3). If fuel pressure is not as specified, go to step 12). 9. Check Fuel Pressure Regulator Leave ignition off and scan tester connected to DLC. Release fuel system pressure. Disconnect fuel hose at fuel rail. Connect hose to fuel rail and put opposite end of hose in clean, one quart container. Turn ignition on. Enter Output Test Mode (OTM) to turn fuel pump on. Note fuel pressure and fuel returning to container. Exit OTM to turn fuel pump off. For fuel pressure specifications, see FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS article. If fuel pressure is as specified with fuel returning to container, go to next step. If fuel pressure is not as specified with fuel returning to container, replace fuel pressure regulator.10. Check Fuel Return System Turn ignition off. Release fuel system pressure. Disconnect fuel hose at fuel pressure regulator. Check fuel return system for kinked or restricted hoses. Disconnect fuel return hose near fuel tank. Apply 3-5 psi to fuel hose from pressure regulator side. If air flows freely, replace fuel pump. If air does not flow freely, repair or replace hose as necessary. 11. Check Fuel Injector Flow & Leakage Turn ignition off. Use Rotunda Injector Tester (113-00001) to flow test fuel injectors. If flow rate for each fuel injector is within specification, system is okay and testing is complete. If flow rate for any fuel injector is not within specification, replace defective fuel injector and repeat QUICK TEST. 12. Check Fuel Pump Voltage Turn ignition off. Ensure scan tester is connected to DLC. Disconnect fuel pump wiring harness connector. Check connector terminals for damage and repair as necessary. Enter Output Test Mode (OTM) and activate fuel pump circuit. Check voltage at fuel pump connector. If voltage is 10.5 volts or more, check fuel pump ground connection. Repair as necessary. If ground connector is okay, replace fuel pump. If voltage is less than 10.5 volts, isolate source of low voltage and repair as necessary.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 6:10 AM
Tiny
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Holw Cow Merlin! What detail (that's always a good thing). Want to thank you very much for all the information. I am a shadetree mecahanic at best (worked on jet engines in the Air force and do my own wrenching on my car (sometimes) and motorcycle (all the time). I did replace the fuel filter and re-tested the pressure. With the key in the on position it would go up to 20psi then after a few starts it would go up to 32psi and the car would start (with any pressure =>10psi registering). So it would seem like the new filter "helped the pressure." Then (with the key on) it would not show any pressure and the car would not start. It started more often but problem still persists. Have not had time or opportunity to do much else yet.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
It's gonna be the key on off ten seconds and back on, repeated several time that will tell for sure, but I am leaning towards a new pump for you.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2009 AT 3:22 PM

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