2002 Kia Sedona Timing Belt Replacement and Subsequent Prob

Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 KIA SEDONA
Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Kia Sedona 6 cyl Automatic 110000 miles

I had the timing belt in my 02 sedona replaced at 110k miles. After 2 days in the shop, I picked it up and the whole car vibrates, whether driving or idled. I took it back to the shop and they set the idle lower. It doesn't vibrate as bad, but when stopped feels like the car is going to die. Also pickup/acceleration from a stop is now very sluggish, car vibrates until about 20 mph, then smooths out. After idle set lower, now check engine light is on, took it back to shop, they said it is a misfire on cylinder 6. They replaced spark plug, wires, fuel injector, some kind of coil, check eng light still on and car still idles and drives very rough. My Q is: is the second problem of the idling and the cylinder misfire related to the timing belt repair (i.E, could it have been a poor/botched repair job)? Know nothing about cars, but 5 days in shop seems excessive. They have no idea what the problem could be.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 11:05 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Hi
Did belt break or maintenence? The belt is not on properly they have cams out of time with crank. When they lowered idle that set light off. As for the miss that's there because belts not on properly.
Have you used this shop before?
Let me know
THanks for donate
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
My service manual called for it at 60k miles, so it was just maintenance, not an actual repair for a broken part.

I have never used the shop before, I'm just wondering if it's time to ask for a refund. That's why I wanted to know if the problems I'm having now are related to the timing belt replacement. At the shop this morning, the tech made it sound as if they are NOT related, and my car has developed new problems.

The car was in the shop for the repair for 2 days, and now 3 more days trying to fix the additional problems (rough idle, check engine light, slow/shaky acceleration).

Thank you very much for your insight!
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 2:10 PM
Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
Hi -- the mechanic said this morning (4th additional day of car in shop) that there is no problem with the timing belt -- he has "opened it up" and checked it 3 times since replacing the belt.

STILL having all the same problems, very rough idle/drive, CEL on, poor acceleration from stop. He said he checked all the cylinders and they are all showing compression of 150-155 (within 20% of each other). He cannot figure out what the problem is (he reiterated that he already changed spark plugs, wires, fuel injector on that cylinder and some kind of coil on that cylinder).

My question is: is there any way to tell if these problems were caused by the original work (i.E, the timing belt replacement)? The original work was $1400+, I have no clue if this shop is being honest with me or not.

Thanks.
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2009 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Will you get code from shop in P0xxx format? Also have they checked cam and crankshaft sensors?
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2009 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
Mechanic called. The hydraulic tensioner timing adjustor is broken. He's not sure if it was broken or starting to fail prior to the belt replacement, or if it got broken during the replacement process. He's willing to fix it for free if I just pay the $195 for the part. Does that seem reasonable?

Also, he says there is a bad engine valve which is responsible for the cylinder misfire. Does this sound right? Fixing this is a $1000 problem btw.

Thanks for any additional help.
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2009 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
I think they damaged auto adjuster causing timing to be out and possibly damage to valve. Ask them what was the measurement of rod protruding from tenisioner during adjustment. If they can respond measurement is 3.8 to 4.5mm ie. Milimeter.
And what are all 6 cylinder compression test readings.
Let me know
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
Hi -- he said the tensioner rod was about 1/8 inch (didn't know what it was in millimeters) but it wasn't holding pressure and would just "collapse all the way back in." Also the cylinder readings are:

1-5 dry = 150
1-5 wet = 170

#6 dry = 75
#6 wet = 100

I hope this helps. Thanks a million for your input.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
KGJULIE
  • MEMBER
That when I picked the car up after the timing belt replacement and the first two subsequent days in the shop trying to fix the vibrating idle, CEL light problems, the mechanics told me they were sure there was nothing serious wrong and the van was OK to take on a planned road trip. So last weekend I drove about 1200 miles, then I brought it back in on Tuesday and it's been in the shop again all week. I'm pretty sure now that driving the 1200 miles on it was not so good and may have caused some of the damage.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
O.K.
That is correct measurment it should hold that measurment so if it is not then tensioner is faulty.
As for compression readings #6 is in troulbe but it is not the valves because perssure came up when wet test done. That indicates a ring problem.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 11:16 AM

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