1995 Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler help

Tiny
ALEXISVICTORIA
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 JEEP WRANGLER
1995 Jeep Wrangler 4 cyl Automatic 192500 miles

95 jeep wrangler would not start this morning. Radio turned on but Engine didn't even make a sound. It was in park so that wasn't the issue. What could be the problem?
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Tuesday, August 17th, 2010 AT 8:26 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile...Imma CJ guy...Can give you some basics....I do not know your rig very well.

Try some of this that I send below....If this does not help you (try to do all you can, with what I send, get a buddy to help)

If this does not help, PLEASE RESUBMIT YOUR QUESTION....I will not answer it....I AM SURE someone more familiar with your rig will assist you in testing items that I cannot help you with!

The following is not all going to apply to you....it was written to another Jeep Guy.

Most of it will apply---Jeep used Ford solenoid systems for years. A WRANGLER MAY HAVE ONE DIFFERENT LOOKING---DO WHAT YOU CAN!!!Some of this is way over your head....disregard it!

Pay special attention to explanations ABCD1234567

Respond at bottom..."REPLY TO QUESTION"

Hope you bring back good news.

I am very sorry I do not know your rig any better.

The Medic

PASTED IN (a little editing)I sent this to another question....I hunt and peck....this gets you something to go on, faster

Several things to check :

IS YOUR BATTERY CHARGED? CAN OR WILL IT JUMP-START? IF IT DOES, YOU STILL MAY NEED TO DO THINGS I "PRESCRIBE" FURTHER DOWN!!!

See if "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is putting out constant 12V instead of 12V when key is in the start position (temporary 12V while starting only) I'll give you a "Nelsomatic" Pic

THIS IS MASSIVE OVERKILL--BUT LOOK AT, MAKE SURE YOU ARE SET UP LIKE THIS---IF NOT A CJ DISREGARD TERMINAL LOCATIONS--BUT YOURS ARE SIMILAR.

TEST "S" and "I" make sure they do what the diagrams say they should do (MORE STUFF AT BOTTOM)

Yours may not look like this, BUT!!!!!!!!!

ALEXIS VICTORIA----THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART!!! DO ALL!!!

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem and HAVE POWER to the solenoid, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it. CLEAN AND TIGHTEN CONNECTINS ON IT TOO!!!

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Please Reply, Good or Bad!!

ALEXIS VICTORIA--- THATS THE MAIN THINGS LISTED ABOVE!!!!!

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

IF YOU HAVE A JEEP CJ, YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR WIRES IN THE EXACT LOCATIONS AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS BELOW----TEST "S" WIRE, while removed from the solenoid (12V ONLY w/key cranking [starting position],) AND INSURE IT GOES ON LOCATION "C"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION (via "RESISTOR WIRE, COMING FROM YOUR "ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH"). IGNITION SWITCH IS "ROD OPERATED" AND IS LOCATED 12 O'CLOCK ON YOUR STEERING COLUMN....OTHER SIDE OF DASH...OVER YOUR PEDALS

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Unfortunatly your 1983 Jeep is almost as old as my newest! (My '77 CJ 5)

People tend to rig up stuff/splice/remove things over the years....

Are you running a COIL---EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY?

The wire from your key (on position) is not all, but partly a RESISTANCE WIRE (just like using a CERAMIC type resistor) UNLESS SMARTY-PANTS GOOFUS removed/replaced/tied into it, years ago

Any wild stuff with the ignition module wires?

The Medic
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Wednesday, August 18th, 2010 AT 12:04 AM

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