1985 Jeep CJ7 idle

  • 1 POST
  • 1985 JEEP CJ7

Engine Performance problem
1985 Jeep CJ7 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 58000 miles

my jeep will not idle u can ajust the idle then drive it and haft to do it agin I replaced the fuel pump and filter there is no problems when driveing

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have the same problem?
Wednesday, April 14th, 2010 AT 9:05 AM

1 Reply

  • 10,370 POSTS

Ok boss, See my profile, Understand it completely, I try to be thorough and personal. No pay for me!, Like to help CJ people.

I want to know how much mechanical knowledge you have, that I might talk to you on a higher level, instead of Kindergarden Level, I will do what I must though.

We are assuming your rig was running well, until now, let me know the ENTIRE situation, including what your "Mentally Challenged Friend" (MCF) has done to it!

Turning the Idle Screw CW to overcome an unknown problem, does nothing but get you out of the Idle Circuit and into the Main Circuit (this is not good)

You need a manual, it will help you now and later.

Do and/ or check/ Give me answers, so I can help you.

See if ALL vacuum lines are attached, not broke, cracked, plugged off.......only 2 are really necessary to run your rig....The rest can be plugged at the port or t1t or n1pple(censorship bypass) On carb and on intake manifold. If you have a "monkeyed with" (not factory anymore) vacuum hose problem.

A uncapped vacuum line/port, is a VACUUM LEAK! ! ! NOT GOOD!.....Use a mirror and get a second opinion, to find all ports on carb and manifold!

I wanted Ron to clean his carb, weeks ago, so I could take pics...for this type question....He did not, PLEASE EXCUSE HIS NASTY CARBURATOR, and the sun's glare...I will try harder next time!

2 keepers are 1 PCV 3/8 large line (BELOW)


2----Ported vacuum to distributor (BELOW)


THE ABOVE ARE NECESSARY VACUUM LINES, all others can be plugged or capped (or leave other fixtures in operation) Capped as in Pic below (red vinyl cap, rubber tends to rot fast, in heat) THIS PIC shows a Manifold Vacuum Port Capped, on manifold and other pic is manifold vacuum capped at carb base.



Another possible problem, you do not have to have, is the EGR valve, and its vauum line (below)

Sometimes, the actual EGR valve can stick part way open, cause bad idle, I've used my fingers inside the slots (closest to carb), gently move it in or out, to free it up.

Whole EGR can be removed cleaned/ replaced and clean the port, left in manifold, when it is removed or make a plate and cap it off (so that there is no leak in the intake or exaust ports in the hole, it leaves when removed permanently)

I used the bolt-on base of the Old EGR, to cap the port, as not to mess up the manifold.

I cut off the vacuum bell and welded the base closed. This "plate" is removable from the manifold, A new EGR could be reinstalled later if wanted. I did this, when I still had the BBD carb [now have a Holley 4 barrel, Offy intake], I capped its vacuum port on carb, capped it with a vinyl cap. (Ron's, still in use EGR system, the vacuum line, in pic, goes to a CTO switch on block, just out of site in pic)


Line with red stripe goes to dashpot (bottom rear center of carb to bell shaped "dealee", seen just above the stepper motor! (in pic below)


This is your bowl vent (BELOW)---it used to go to canister--Ron's is loose (this pic)---I removed the canister on my Jeep, and installed a "1 in 1 out, clear, fuel filter on the bowl vent lines, just below, where the one in the pic stops. I did that, just to keep dirt and dirt daubers out---it must "BREATH"DO NOT CAP IT OFF!.

If you do cap it, your bowl fuel will expand, when you shut engine off---fuel will boil out of carb and all over exaust stuff----FIRE HAZARD!


Other stuff to check are :

Tight intake manifold bolts to head

Tight Carburator Screws (holding carb together)

And the nuts that hold carb to intake manifold for Tightness.

Do you still run the original, 3 t1t, FUEL FILTER, 1 in, 1 to carb, and 1 to tank return? (This is the only filter that will make your carb work right, and must still go to CARB and RETURN all the way back to the fuel tank, it is a necessity).......Mine has been re-routed and extra stuff installed, (but it still operates the same as factory, I like gadgets) for my Holley 390 CFM (BELOW)


Get back to me with following info:

Anything not right above.

Do you have a Dwell meter? Tach Combo meter?

Vacuum gauge?

Timeing Light?


Understanding of their use?

I will help you regardless, but need to know, what you know.

We will TRY one more FIX and then tune your carb and be DONE!!!................before we move into Rebuild/ replace carb. ---(maybe we will not go there!)---(But I do have recommendations if you do have to replace it), before you jump the gun on replacement.

When you repond, SPILL YOUR GUTS on all we have discussed. I will help all the way!

"Mr. Jeep" 1977 258 (below), and my 4 barrel Holley



"Willy" 1946 134 flathead (below)


Alot of work on my end---you better respond!

Ask questions. Send Pics of your questionable stuff, use a pointer in you pic.

I can share my CJ modifications Pic albums (walmart viewing), with you, if you ask nicely!

Love, Turddog

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Wednesday, April 14th, 2010 AT 3:38 PM

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