1983 Jeep CJ7 Starter Relay?

Tiny
CCHIZZLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1983 JEEP CJ7
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 108,000 MILES
I just got my moms old Jeep the other day. Just fyi this jeep has maybe a couple hundred miles in the last 15 years. It was running just fine about 5 months ago, then died on the way to DMV.

Yesterday we got it going again. When the key is in the start position it fires up fine. As soon as you let go it dies. If while the key is in the start position, and engine running, you have someone pull the blue wire off the starter solenoid it will stay running. We're kind of lost on this. The only thing we can think is a start relay but the only one we can find is the solenoid itself. Also, even with key off it appears the positive going to the coil is hot.
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Tuesday, June 15th, 2010 AT 10:23 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK Boss, SEE MY PROFILE. Stole below from another question I answered (I type slow)

I have more for you, when you check these things for correct locations, proper voltage in repective key positions, etc.
Some of this may not apply to you, but to the other guy I answered.

I will explain "I" terminal and its function....and why this may keep you running, in START....., We can do further tests....but lets knock out the EZ stuff 1st! See if your stuff is working (volt tests) Lets eliminate/narrow down....solenoid by these checks.

See "1985 CJ 7 Stalls When Hot" (14 responses) You will see there, the extent I will Help you....+ other CJ 5/7 Posts!

Respond at bottom..."REPLY TO QUESTION"

The Medic

----PASTED ON PORTION

Several things to check :

See if "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is putting out constant 12V instead of 12V when key is in the start position (temporary 12V while starting only) I'll give you a "Nelsomatic" Pic----THIS IS MASSIVE OVERKILL--BUT LOOK AT, MAKE SURE YOU ARE SET UP LIKE THISTEST "S" and "I" make sure they do what the diagrams say they should do (MORE STUFF AT BOTTOM)

See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

IF YOU HAVE A CJ, YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR WIRES IN THE EXACT LOCATIONS AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS BELOW----TEST "S" WIRE, while removed from the solenoid (12V ONLY w/key cranking [starting position],) AND INSURE IT GOES ON LOCATION "C"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION (via "RESISTOR WIRE, COMING FROM YOUR "ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH"). IGNITION SWITCH IS "ROD OPERATED" AND IS LOCATED 12 O'CLOCK ON YOUR STEERING COLUMN....OTHER SIDE OF DASH...OVER YOUR PEDALS

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Unfortunatly your rig is almost as old as my newest! ('77)

People tend to rig up stuff/splice/remove things over the years....

Are you running a COIL---EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY?

The wire from your key (on position) is not all, but partly a RESISTANCE WIRE (just like using a CERAMIC type resistor) UNLESS SMARTY-PANTS GOOFUS removed/replaced/tied into it, years ago

Any wild stuff with the ignition module wires?

The Medic
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2010 AT 2:24 PM

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