See my profile...
I cannot see your oil leak....you must find it on your end...maybe can assist you when location is found.
I MAY BE ABLE TO HELP WITH THE "NO START ISSUE"
Your solenoid probably looks different then "My CJ 5 PIC"----This stuff works really much the same!....Do what it says below....INSURE YOUR BATTERY IS NOT DEAD--OR YOU CAN JUMP IT....CHECK AND DO THE REST AS I DESCRIBE....I am pasting this on from another answer I wrote to another situation...some of this may have been intended for the other guy.
SEE MY PROFILE, When you spell "Jeep" Always use a CAPITAL "J"---otherwise it looks as if "He" is not important to you!
I saw you have been here awhile waiting, I DO NOT KNOW YOUR RIG MUCH AT ALL, A manual would aid you well, even to help translate from a "CJ" to a "Wrangler"---much stuff is the same, and works the same---just looks different.
A number of things could have GONE WRONG, SINCE I WAS NOT WATCHING THE OPERATION, I am ONLY to guess.
For starters you could have : Pulled something loose, grounded a "HOT WIRE" and blew a fuse or FUSABLE LINK, or failed to hook somthing back up. A manual would be helpful.
Here is the next best thing I can do, I wrote this (below) a while back, I have sent it to several people before.....Try to translate it to your vehicle, These POWER TESTS, volts and when volts should happen at the Solenoid MAY HELP YOU LOCATE THE PROBLEM.
If you should find something, I will try to assist you ELECTRICALLY (For I am a CJ GUY, and have little experience with your type rig)
Here it is, pick out what you need, some applies only to the CJ people, LET ME KNOW SOMETHING---GOOD or BAD
I assume it won't even turn over, pick through this, it may help...OR NOT...Special Attention to all Mechanical Electrical Joints!
Read Post "1985 Jeep CJ 7 Stalls when Hot" IN CJ 7 FORUM (14 responses)(6 cylinder, lots of good stuff in post!) Get back wih me soon, WILL HELP YOU ALL I CAN!----As I kept up with post I just mentioned...I will tell you when your problem is too much for me!
Let me know if it helped you.
I know your Solenoid looks different, but they do the same function!
I believe if it were a fuse (check the fuses again! May be several locations, may be more than just 1 fuseblock), It wouldn't work at all. I do not know your rig very well, however, I saw your question, unanswered, and thought MAYBE this might help you, get your Baby back on the road.
If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!
TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELL
DO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".
Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!
While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.
If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.
My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.
Please Reply, Good or Bad.
I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.
"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.
7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )
(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND.
Saturday, July 3rd, 2010 AT 12:09 AM