Hopefully in the time that has lapsed you have made some headway.
I just looked the list over and found you had no responses.
I'll offer what I can.
Of course, first of all Mr. Battery has got to be in great working order, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail.
Power must be getting where it should, my answers/ pics in link below may show something you missed.
I looked at wire diagrams for your vehicle
Check Fuse 107 (40 amp) in the battery junction box (front/ center of the engine compartment)
With a voltmeter and the fuse removed, is there power getting to one side of the fuse?
I don't have a clue why you changed the ignition switch, stopped working/ jammed/ whatever
If it were somehow not making a good connection internally or externally, the spade(s) may have gotten real hot.
In turn, sometimes that heat might melt or disfigure the plastic connector that mates with the switch. Most of the time I see the female spade (metal part/ pin/ actual connection) has been gotten loose/ discolored, basically a loose connect, until it is replaced.
Along with the heat damage, the plastic connector housing may be damaged enough to where it no longer holds the female spade(s) fixed in a permanent position. In other words pushing the connector onto the ignition switch may result in one or more of the females pushing rearward in the plastic.
This sometimes does connect just by "touching' it's mate, but really it's not shoved all the way home. Just a little more heat/ movement/ or that "spark" that might occur when the key gets turned may totally disconnect the "touch"
This has happened in my Jeep CJ-5 a number of times to my floor headlight dimmer switch (moisture may have started the process into motion on my Jeep) But the results are similar on light switches and ignition switches (really anything with connectors)
I'll stick in a few pics of the dimmer connection if it may help to understand.
Let us know what you have found.
Images (Click to enlarge)
Wednesday, December 14th, 2016 AT 5:21 PM