Has no spark

And just exactly how do I do that? I have already put an Ohm meter across from terminal to terminal (3) on both the old and new (still on the engine) and got nothing. Tried unpluging the cam shaft positioning sensor and the code remained the same.

Code will erase, but comes back as soon as I turn the key. As I said, both the old and new sensors read "zero" across all 3 terminals. Is that correct? Should I be getting a reading across 2 of them? If I look for voltage on the female socket what would I read? Also, the readout says CAM/crank shaft sensor failure, so I tried unpluging the CAM shaft sensor and the code P0335 came back.

Do I need to have the dealer put it on Their Machine in order to tell the "brain" the part has been replaced and it is OK to start now?

Put meter across prongs in male end 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. No resistance (continuity) on either one. Read one at a time to ground to see if I had pinched the wire while closing up. No reading of any sort, another words no short to ground. Tried unpluging the CAM sensor to see if I got another code, but it still comes up P0335. Shouldn't I have gotten another code? In addition to the first one. I am not at all sure that the crank sensor was bad. I have a sneaking suspicion something else is causing the problem. But I've been wrong befor!

What voltage am I looking for at the CAM sensor?
Getting back to "razmataz's" answer How do I do that!
Getting back to KHlow2008"s answer, yes, I know that just because something is "brand new' doesn't make it good. I have seen condensors (correct name is capacitors) that were bad right out of the box. Same with light bulbs. Just not very often.
Now then what voltage am I looking for to the cam sensor?

OK, Now "we" are getting somewhere! The pages you included allowed me to determine that there IS voltage to the sensor. In the process I DID figure out how to "test/read" the sensor while it is still on the vehicle. I'm tempted to say how I accomplished that (for a fee!) But that would be mean. All I had to do was take a wire from the positive battery terminal to the "top" pin on the plug (red wire). Then read the return voltage on the lower right pin (black wire). Both the old and new sensors read about 10+ volts returning. Come Monday we are going to tow it to a local shop and put it on their machine.
Figure 180 says to measure resistance between ground and CKP terminal #1. I read MORE than 1 ohm, 2. Something. Is that OK? Then it says to measure voltage between ground and CKP terminal #2. I got 4.68volts. Is that OK?
The only test I couldn't do was the "A/T:Disconnect PCM connector C44-2" as none of the paper work I have available to me told me WHERE that plug was.
I have learned a couple of things while working on this problem. 1) I will NOT work on another late model car without access to the Factory Shop Manual for that vehicle right from the start. 2)I will (most likely) NOT take the diagnosis from a Code reader as "fact".
Will check back later to see if anyone responds to the questions I just asked.
PS. I am NOT happy with the first 2 responses at all. The next 1 was not much help. The 4th one was at least some help. But for the money I got charged I am not at all happy. I was led to believe I wouldn't pay if I wasn't "totally satisfied" but I don't see a way to change that now. As a result I will not recommend this site. Sincerly, Mr. Wise

KHLow2008, The diagrams you included did help some. Eventually I got some help via another site. In the end I did find "the problem". This is quite embarrasing to admit, but it seems that when I was trying different ways to dress the wiring to ensure it didn't rub on the timming belt (there is PRECIOUS LITTLE CLEARANCE) I accidentally installed the sensor 180 degress out of position. That is to say Backwards! The plate was passing Behind the sensor rather than through the slot! No wonder the engine wouldn't start! If I worked on cars for a living I wouldn't forgive myself, but I was "coming out of retirement" to help a friend who is about broke. After the engine started I heard a "pop" and then noticed a Bright spark at the ignition wire to the #1 cyl. We replaced 2 ingition wires and that helped the idle. Would have replaced the coil packs but at $80 each that will have to wait. He desperately needs to repair the half shafts and 4 tires. BUT WAIT, now the Starter has taken a dump! He has no money for that and I can't loan him any more than I have already. "If it weren't for bad luck."
In total I used 4 web sites in an effort to get help. 3 were "free", 1 asked for a $2 donation (this site?) And 1 charged me $36. The first 4 were of little to marginal help. The last one was totally useless. Should I find myself doing any more work on late model cars I will insist that the owner get me the FACTORY SHOP MANUAL. My mechanical skills are acctually quite good despite this disasster. But having the manual would have made all the difference. I still have over 30 manuals I collected over the years including the one for the 1962 Rambler Classic Stationwagon I learned to drive in! Time was I knew the average life expectancy of most parts on popular vehicles from the early 60's to mid 70's. Knowing the milage told me a lot. Looking at the engine, smelling the engine added to that and listening to it crank and fire up told me everything I needed to know. I could take a car (say a 60 something 283 cu in Chevy)that hadn't run right in years and restore it to "tire chirping status" with a full tune-up, carb. And valve adjust. Got a call one time to fix a Nova that had dontated it's original 327 for a latter model 350. It didn't idle right. First thing I did was verify the firing order. 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.9. NINE? What the? Seems that the #8 wire from the distributor was dangling behind the engine while the wire from the #8 cyl. Was laying on the intake manifold. That would do it! So I'm not the only one who makes silly mistakes!
Thanks again for the diagrams. DW (lediy99)

Ive changed cps+cam senser +plugs=coil pack+air flow metor+electric module that sends power to coil connectors 3 pin and I keep getting fault code p0320
i changed another coil pack today still no spark but the coil pack over heating and a big bulge on side of coil pack and was red hot ive changed so mutch things what could be the problem I cant find a short anywhare? And it looks like a short to ground; please any help app thanks

Hi, I change the timing belt as it has chewed teeth. I also changed the head gasket and the two exhaust valves on number four cylinder as they were snapped off. Changed the crank sensor as it had been destroyed by the teeth that were in the timing cover. All back together and I have compression and fuel but no spark. I have checked the crank sensor installation and it is running correctly (ie) the sensor plate is the right way around and is running correctly through the sensor magnetic field. I have checked all the timing marks and everything lines up on TDC after numerous revolutions. The crank sensor only has.3 volts coming from the PCM at the connector to the CKS which I think is the problem as I believe I read it should be around five Volts. So it all cranks etc but no spark at the plugs. Any suggestions?

Okay, thanks I will try that today. My OBD2 reader is not connecting with the ECU. It is a cheap one and it not the first time I have had this problem with it. Bluetooth's to my phone okay, but then will not connect to the ECU so not able to scan unless I go buy another one which I cannot afford to do until next payday. I have checked the internal fuses already and they are all okay, but have not done under the hood. Not sure how to do a security system reset, but will check it out. I have had some issues with the system not disarming since I bought it so it could well be the problem. Will keep you posted cheers!