1999 Honda Civic won't start - distributor?

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

If it is a TEC brand distributor, the resistance should be good, unless the primary is higher than 0.7 ohms.

The ICM Blue wire goes to the tach test conn and tach gauge in meter cluster. If you have no sparks, there would be no pulse for the tach to work.

At least one sensors ( crank or TDC ) have to be working to provide pulses for the ICM to trigger the ignition coil.

Were there any trouble codes retrived?

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Thursday, September 23rd, 2010 AT 8:42 AM

SUNCARS

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One thing I realized is that the area in the manual which talks about the blu wire and the tach is just for D16Y5 and B16A2 engines and mine is a D16Y8, so I don't think the dist. And the wiring is going to be same - there doesn't appear to be anything in the manual for the Y8 specifically for how the tach gets its signal. There is a second sensor in the dist. Similar to the one for the TDC/CKP. Sensor and it has a blue wire to it and I'm guessing that it is for the tach but not sure. I know that I don't have continuity to any of the eng. H/a pins at the dist. And the test tach connector.

Should I?

Is there any where in the manual which shows the wiring for this engine for where and how the tach gets its signal?

I don't have any engine codes. Wouldn't have codes if the sensors in the dist. Were not working? The CEL light does come on when key is turned on and then turns off after 2 seconds.

If the ECM/PCM is bad i.E. Not sending signals or something would I have codes for that?

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Thursday, September 23rd, 2010 AT 9:35 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
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Wiring system are similar.

The tachometer receives its signal from the PCM which is notified by the Yellow/Green wire from the ICM.

How many wires do you have at the distributor?
How many sensors are there?

The sensor with the Blue wire is NOT for the tachometer. It is the CKP ( crankshaft position ) sensor

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Thursday, September 23rd, 2010 AT 9:59 AM

SUNCARS

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I was able to get this thing running - difficult starting at first - probably had gotten flooded some but is running. Not sure of the exact fix but believe it must have been bad dists.

I adjusted timing but exhaust smells funny - fuel smell - running rich? And I have a CEL and code P0420 catalyst efficiency "below threshold bank 1"?

Is this a timing issue?

Unable to locate timing procedure and specs in manual do you have one?

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Friday, September 24th, 2010 AT 5:46 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
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P0420 is a fault with the catalytic converter or O2 sensors and can smell funny if the catalytic converter is bad.

Ignition Timing

1. Set parking brake. Start engine and ensure idle speed is correct. Turn ignition off, connect SCS Service Connector (07PAZ-0010100) to 2-pin service check connector. Connect tachometer. Run engine at 3000 RPM with no electrical loads (headlights, blower motor, rear defogger, A/C and cooling fan off) and transmission in Park or Neutral. When radiator cooling fan comes on, allow engine to idle.

2. 2-pin service check connector is located under right side of instrument panel. See Fig. 13 . Service check connector on uses a Brown wire and a Black wire.

3. Connect timing light to No. 1 spark plug wire. Check base ignition timing at specified engine idle. See IGNITION TIMING (DEGREES BTDC - RED MARK @ RPM) table. Red mark indicates degrees BTDC. White mark indicates No. 1 cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC). See Fig. 19 .

4. If timing is not as specified, loosen distributor hold-down bolts and rotate distributor to adjust timing. Rotate distributor counterclockwise to advance timing and clockwise to retard timing. Recheck timing after tightening distributor hold-down bolts.

5. Tighten distributor hold-down bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 N.m). Remove timing light, tachometer and SCS service connector.