Power windows not working

Tiny
SOPARKLION
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
My passenger side power window stopped functioning a couple weeks ago, fortunately in the up position. I could use the slave or master switch and there was absolutely no sound from the motor. I took apart the door and ran a line from the battery to the motor and I was able to move the window up and down. Now when I test across each switch with my circuit tester, I register a complete circuit. This has me completely stumped, as I'm now wondering what could be wrong. The driver's window is fine, so it isn't the fuse. If it were either switch, then they should've give good circuit results. The wire from the slave to the actuator also tests out as OK. Could I have an issue with my wiring harness?
Thanks,
SPL
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 8:41 PM

28 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi soparklion,

It sounds like the master switch has gone out which controls the power and ground to the passengers side window. Here is a guide to help test it to confirm the issue and diagrams below to show you how to change the switch out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/electric-window-repair

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, March 4th, 2009 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
TORIB
  • MEMBER
Thanks for this post I had the main switch go out on me as well cost me $98.00 for the switch from the deal all fixed!
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
NICSKAR
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
All windows in my 2001 honda accord (other than the driver side window) do not function in response to pushing the window control buttons on any door. I just cleaned out the car, wiping it down with windex spray. I did also spray the control buttons on the door and wiped them off seconds later, but I had done so many times before without any problem. Could this have caused a short circuit or a blown fuze? Why would the driver side window still work? If it is blown fuze, how do I identify the one that needs to be replaced? If it is a short circuit, what do I do, and generally how much should I expect to pay?
Thanks much! Nick
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi nicskar,

At the driver control there is a lock and unlock button for the other power wndows. Check if you accidentally lock the power supply to the other windows.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUSCHY
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
I own a 2001 honda accord 4 door. Recently, when it started to get warmer, my front drivers side window stopped working. At first it was spuradic, on a hot humid day, it would stop working. Later at night when it cooled off and was less humid it would start working again. Now in the hot and humid chicago summer, it doesnt work at all anymore. Since it stated off as spuradic, I assume it has something to do with the actual swith on my door. I have tried replacing the fuses just incase that was the problem, but nothing has fixed it. Should I look into buying a new power window switch assembly or is the problem more complicated? Please help!
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hi buschy. Welcome to the forum. How about we diagnose this puppy instead of blindly throwing parts at it? It could be the switch, but it could also be broken wires between the door hinges or a dead motor.

First of all, where are the switches, in the door or in the center console? Do the other windows work? If the other windows do not work, suspect broken wires between the driver's door hinges. If the switches are in the center console, it is possible for any one window to not work due to broken wires in that door.

A simple trick that might help narrow down the cause is to watch the dome light very closely when you press the window switch. The engine must be not running but the ignition switch must be in the run position. If you see the dome light dim just the very tiniest amount when you press the window switch, the wiring and switch are most likely ok, and the motor is drawing current and trying to run. See if the window will move when you try to help it. If it moves but slowly, there are two common possibilities. There may be a thermal cutout inside the motor that has pitted contacts. The cutouts cause more problems than they prevent. The second possibility is the rubber channels are gummed up and the window is sticking. Spray Silicone Spray Lube inside those channels and let it wash down along the edges of the glass. It will evaporate and leave a slippery film behind.

If you don't see the dome light dim at all when you press the window switch, suspect broken wires again between the hinges, or it is possible, but not common, that the switch itself is defective. GM has a lot trouble with window switches, but not most other manufacturers.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUSCHY
  • MEMBER
Caradiodoc,
Thanks for responding so quickly. I tried turning the ignition on but keeping the car off and testing the switch. There was no flicker or dimming of the dome light.
I wanted you to clarify what you ment by a broken wire 'between the hinges.' Are you refering to the wires that travel through the grommit between the door and the car body? Would this be something I would have to buy a new wire for or could I just patch it with electrical tape or wire nuts? I am fairly competent with wiring and would like to do this myself.
Also, could you recommend where I could find a detailing of what color wire's are for what controls? I am used to setting up my own car stereos and remember most of them coming with a diagram or detailing of what color is for what purpose.
Thanks again!
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yup, those are the wires I'm talking about. Some vehicles like Jeeps use a harness that plugs in on both ends. Most vehicles have wires that do go to plugs on the body side but getting to them isn't always practical. I've done a half dozen repairs on older Caravans. I can't help you with wire colors, but if you replace just one at a time, you shouldn't have to know which one is which.

Here's a copy / paste version of a reply I sent to someone else:

Suspect broken wires between the two left door hinges. The following repair pertains to Caravans, but the procedure applies.

Peel the tape open on the wire harness between the two left door hinges. Remove the door trim panel, unplug all the stuff like power mirrors, windows, locks, speakers, and courtesy light so you can pull the harness part way out of the door. Pull as much harness as possible out of the "A" pillar.

There can be up to 22 wires and some of them will be the same color with the same color stripes. If you mix these up, everything will still work, but you might pop an automatic resetting circuit breaker if the right power window is operated in different directions by two different people at the same time. To avoid confusion, start with the broken wires, then move on to the wires with cracked insulation.

In 1990s Caravans, the replacement section is 11" long. Slide the rubber grommets back to expose the sections or wire that were inside the door and "A" pillar. Cut one wire in these two sections. The replacement wire must be the same gauge, stranded, and 22" long. The color is not important. Strip about 1/2" of insulation from both ends of the replacement wire, and both ends of the original wire. To splice the new wire in, slide the strands together and push down any strands that stick up. Solder the connection by heating it with a soldering iron on one side and applying the solder to the other side, never directly to the iron tip. The molten solder will flow toward the heat source. When it cools, check for any sharp points. If you can feel them, flatten them with a needle nose pliers so they don't poke through the heat-shrink tubing. Slide a 1" piece of heat-shrink tubing over the splice and warm it with a match or lighter. Don't over-do it as the tubing will melt and split open. Also, don't use electrical tape. It will come off in hot weather, and is a sign of laziness.

Slide another piece of tubing onto the wire, then splice the second end. Install the heat-shrink tubing, and the first wire is done. When all the wires are done, wrap the harness with tape. Electrical tape will crack apart in a short time. Friction tape works well, but don't make the bundle of wires real tight. The wires will want to slide over each other a little when the door is opened and closed.

Slide the grommets over the ends of the tape to help hold it in place. Slide just enough of the harness back into the door to reconnect all the plugs. All the splices on this end should be inside the door so they don't flex when the door is opened. By splicing in 22" long pieces of wire, the new section of the harness is twice as long as it should be. Slide the rubber grommet for the "A" pillar down far enough that only 11" will be between the door and "A" pillar. Push the other wire into the "A" pillar and coil it where the parking brake pedal won't interfere with it. The reason for the extra wire is to get ready for the next time this repair becomes necessary. Just pull the harness out and you will be half done! No need to make the splices on that end.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BBRENDA88
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA ACCORDHONDA ACCORD
I have a 2000 Honda Accord Coupe V6 with 97000 miles on it and the power window on the passenger side is not working. You can hear a clicking noise coming from the door when driving and not touching anything. The driver side is also having some problems but has not stopped working completely. I need to know what the problem is so I can have a friend look at it and repair it.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
I would put off the inside door panel and watch the mechanism to see if a component has broken. Pretty pricey but necessary.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
K83
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
Problem One: My power window on the passenger side will not work. After thinking it was the motor in the window, I replaced it, however it still does not work. It seems like that side of the car is not getting power to it. The power locks work on that side of the car, but not the switch that operates the window. I also checked to see if the fuses were out, they are all in good shape. I am not sure what is causing this and how to fix it.
Problem Two: The driver side window is working, but I am getting the feeling that it is about to go out. It will roll up and down and when it gets to the top it makes a loud noise almost like a clicking sound. I am not sure what is wrong with it or how to address this problem.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi k83,

If the rear window is working correctly, then it is not a power supply problem unless some wires have broken off between the switch and body.

It could be a faulty master or passenger side switch. If any fails, you would not ba able to control the window motor.

For the motor to produce abnormal noises, most likely the regulator is failing and you might have to replace it soon.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAY12052
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 HONDA ACCORD
  • 162,000 MILES
Yesterday 3 of my windows just quit working. Only the drivers window and the sunroof work, the other three went out all at once. All the window fuses are good and I really don't believe three window motors could just all go out at the exact same time. No rain has gotten into the car but we do have storms coming with my windows stuck down and I really don't want to cover my windows with trash bags if it can be an easy fix. What should I do next, did I forget to check anything?
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Did you check if the main switch at driver door had been turned off?
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAY12052
  • MEMBER
I did that right after I posted my question. Turns out that was it. I feel like a dummy. Thx tho your answer worked
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Sometimes we miss the simple things and is nothing to feel bad about.

Have a nice day.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BROHAMJEFF
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA ACCORD
Electrical problem
1995 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 130000 miles

I have a 1995 honda Accord with 130000 miles. My power windows do not work at all. On the driver side there is a master control that can control all the 4 windows in the car, but the switch for the front passenger side is missing. Could the missing switch be the reason none of my windows work? If I get another switch will my windows work again?
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The missing swith would only afffect that particular window, but if the main switch is defective, then it can affect all other windows.

Have you checked the fuses under the bonnet? Each window has its own fuse.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EMMAYO
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
Only the passenger side window is working. All other windows do not work. How does one go about repairing the other three windowsoes one go about repairing the other three windows
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • EXPERT
You need to figure out if the others are getting power to the window motor or not. If they are getting power to the motors then you know the motors are probably bad. If they aren't then it is probably a problem with the switch.
It is easy to tell if you have a voltmeter. You just need to see if there is battery voltage to the motors when you press the switch. If there isn't then you need to see if the switch is getting power. If it is then it is probably a switch problem.
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Monday, February 25th, 2019 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)

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