2000 Honda Accord No communication in the car

Tiny
DD_110588
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The charging indicator test? Is that the one? If so No because I dont have a VAT-40 or equivilent tester.

So what exactly do you want me to do to fuse #6? And what voltage are you talking about?

So that one little fuse is in control for all those components thats you listed?
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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There is nothing wrong with fuse # 6 and yes, it is used for so many components.

The alternator charging indicator test does not require any special equipments.

I have sent the files to you again jut in case it was missed out. Let meknow the outcome.
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
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Ok this is what I got ive been confusing the test procedures but I did fig 6 and in the end it says to replace/repair the alternator which I already have from the beginning. So now what?
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 3:19 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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This seems to be a fault with the charging indicator circuit and since the test indicates all the wiring are in good order and to replace the alternator, then most likely the alternator is faulty.

As I mentioned earlier, bench test only test the alternator performance, it can pass but the charge indicator ciruit fails because the bench test do not provide any test for it.

Get another alternator to test.
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
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What about the dimli alternator light in the cluster. When I ground the wire that makes the light turn on it makes the light as bright as the other lights.
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Thursday, August 5th, 2010 AT 3:40 PM
Tiny
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When the alternator chage indicator circuit malfunctions, it can glow dimly and that is the reason the alternator is recomended to be replaced as per the test.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 6:55 AM
Tiny
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So you think both the original and the rebuilt one where bad from there? Because I still got the original and they both did the same thing
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
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It is possible for it to occur. As you have performed all the test outlined and it indicates the alternator is the cause so we shold get a replacement alternator to avoid wasting time on diagnosing and getting nowhere.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
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And those that also affect it by not charging. Because it still doesnt charge.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
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All the more the alternator is faulty.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 11:21 AM
Tiny
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Ok so before I get to taking the alternator again besides the EDL and the PCM and the #6 15A fuse there is nothing more that is connected to the alternator right?
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
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There is the main wire from the battery via fuse box to the alternator main terminal.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
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Its new to. Well ill put the original alternator and do this test again because I honestly dont believe that two good alternators would have the same exact problem. Ill let you know and see what happens.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
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If both alternators are new then the possibility is low bt if it is a rebuilt, I would not discount the possibility.

Keep me updated. I would like to know the actual cause too.
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
DD_110588
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One more thing is there a way to get in the alternator and check it from the inside to maybe see if I could find something?
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
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The rectifier can be tested but not the voltage regulator.

RECTIFIER
Check for continuity in each direction, between the B terminal "A" and P terminals "B", and between the E terminal "C" and P terminals of each diode pair. See Fig. 12. All diodes should have continuity in only one direction. Because the rectifier diodes are designed to allow current to pass in only one direction, and the rectifier is made up of 8 diodes (4 pairs) (6 diodes (3 pairs) for 2000-03 models), you must test each diode in both directions for continuity with an ohmmeter that has diode checking capability: a total of 16 checks (12 checks for 2000-03 models). If any diode is faulty, replace the rectifier assembly (Diodes are not available separately). If all the diodes are OK, go to BRUSHES inspection.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_Rectifier00AccordFig12_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 7th, 2010 AT 6:23 AM
Tiny
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Hey I did a test for when the alt light on the dash doesnt turn on and your suppose to get the blu/white wire from the alt and ground it and when I do that the light comes out bright but also the lights from the door/trunk hazard turn on as well.
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Saturday, August 14th, 2010 AT 12:55 PM
Tiny
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The wire is linked to the Driver's Multiplex control unit and grounding it can cause the symptoms described.

Did you try grounding the wire and then only turning the ignition switch on? If yes and the indicators turns off after 2 seconds, then the circuit is ok, if not you might have a fault with the multoplex control unit.

However the hazard lights should not come on.
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Saturday, August 14th, 2010 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
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No the hazard lights dont turn on just the lights that tell you when you have you doors and trunk open turn on. Ill tyr that and ill let you know.
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Monday, August 16th, 2010 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
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Isnt the multiplex unit the ecm/ecu? The light those not turn off when you put the ignition after I grounded the white and blue wire.
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Friday, August 27th, 2010 AT 4:28 PM

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