1999 Honda Accord 1999 Honda Accord LX Won't Start

Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
My elderly (80's) parents have a 1999 Honda Accord LX (4cyl) with automatic transmission, approx 105,000 miles. They called me because it wouldn't start. The engine turns over great, but just doesn't fire. I went over and checked the usual things (gas & spark). It didn't seem to be getting gas so I replaced the fuel pump (that was fun.) But still didn't start. I then changed the rotor, distributor cap & the plugs. I also checked and changed the fuses but that didn't help either. When I test to see if there is spark there is none. So the engine doesn't seem to be getting spark or gas. What am I missing? Is there a computer control module that would be controlling these things that I man need to change? I look forward to your input!
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Saturday, July 19th, 2008 AT 7:49 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi HRJ77,

There is an ECM to control the starting and running of the engine but it seldom is the problem.

First you need to isolate if it is mechanical, electrical or fuel that is causing the problem.

Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, if the rotor turns, we can skip mechanical.

Before checking any electricals, check if there are any blown fuses both under dash and hood.

Check for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow wire with ignition switch on. If there is, pull 1 plug wire out and insert a plug to its end and ground it on the engine, NEVER groud it to the battery terminals.

Crank the engine and if you see blue sparks it is ok, reddish or yellow sparks means the coils is bad.

If no sparks, the ICM is faulty.

Test for power supply to fuel pump at initial ignition switch turned on, (2 seconds only) and while cranking. If none, the main relay is faulty.
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Sunday, July 20th, 2008 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
Hello KHLow 2008!

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed troubleshooting path to follow!

I eliminated the mechanical as the rotor turns and I have checked all the fuses and they are good.

I am wondering how to check power supply to the distributor black/yellow wire & fuel pump? (Voltmeter? If so can you give me a few more details. I have used a voltmeter a couple times, but am not that proficient with it.

I tried pulling one of the spark plug wires and putting another spark plug in it to see if it received spark but I couldn't see any.

I have tried to listen and see if the fuel pump engages when the ignition is turned on, but I don't hear anything. I obviously need to follow your instruction and test the power to the both the distributor and fuel pump, but would greatly appreciate a little more instruction.
Thanks Again! HRJ77
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Sunday, July 20th, 2008 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi HRJ77,

You are welcomed.

So far so good, we are going in the correct direction.

No sparks at plug means the distributor is not providng any, hope you did ground the plug while cranking.

To check for power supply to distributor, unplug the coupler and connect the Black/Yellow wire to a voltmeter or a test lamp to ground and turn ignition switch on. Battery voltage should be present/test lamp lights up means power is available.

If no power supply, you need to check for broken wires, blown fuses, bad or disconnected wire connectors.

We settle this first.
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Monday, July 21st, 2008 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
Excellent! I will be checking these things out tomorrow night and let you know how it goes.
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Monday, July 21st, 2008 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
Ok, I did test the black/yellow wire and my test lamp lit up so I have power. What next?

Also, when I turn the key to on (without trying to start it) I get 6 beeps and I notice that there is a light on the dash that shows if a door or trunk is open and all of them stay lit like they are all open when they are all closed.

Another thing is I cannot put the car in Neutral unless I use the manual overide.
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Tuesday, July 22nd, 2008 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi HRJ77,

Those are the safety indicators and if the gear shift cannot be shifted, check for a blown fuse underdash on driver side No 9. (7.5 A). Your brake lights should be malfunctioning at this moment as well.

This might not be related to the engine not starting and if the No 9 (7.5 A) fuse is not blown, you need to check for bad or contaminated wire connections.

With power available at the distributor and cranking doesn't provide any sparks, the ignition coil or ICM is faulty.
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Tuesday, July 22nd, 2008 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
You are correct, the brake light is on as well, but I have gone through and checked #9 (and all the others), but they are good. I also tried putting in a new main relay assembly, but no change. I am very frustrated at this point.
Any way to determine which one is bad or should I just buy both and see what happens. (I need to get this up and running for my parents).
Please know my frustration is with the car and not you.I really do appreciate your help! I can normally fix the problem, but am weak when it comes to electronic components and testing them. I still have a lot to learn, but would like to gain knowledge and experience in this area.
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Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
HRJ77
  • MEMBER
One other thing I forgot to mention. The "Check Engine Light" never comes on when I turn the ignition to on. I read somewhere that that may mean problems with the ECU?
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Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi HRJ77,

Sorry for the late reply.

When the CEL does not show for 2 seconds after ignition switch is turned on, it could be the ECM is out. Check the power supply first, especially to the main relay.

The 6 beeps you mentioned earlier could be due to the multiplex system malfunction. The driver door is not able to receive signals from the other units but the Multiplex SCS has to be bridged to get it into self diagnosis mode. Check fuse under dash on passenger side #13 (7.5 A)
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Wednesday, July 30th, 2008 AT 6:32 AM

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