1998 Honda Accord No fuel

Tiny
NANDO39
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD

Electrical problem
1998 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 157 miles

Hi, I tryed to change a bulb on the dash board and I made a short circuit applying voltage to the black wire on the dash board and blew the fuel pump fuse and after that I replace the fuse but now the car doesn't want to start. I checked to see if there was electricity in the fuel pump, fuel injector and spark plugs and there is electricity but the fuel pump does not work. What do you think is the problem?
do you think it has anything to do with that trigering the alarm or did I damage the fuel pump?

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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 9:33 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
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Hi nando39,

Thank you for the donation.

The fuel pump wiring is not connected when engine is not running and any wire shorting should not cause it to malfunction.

However a shorting of the ECU would cause the fuel pump not to work.

If the fuel pump does not work with voltage applied, then it is either bad or the wire circuit is open. I wuld suggest using a remote wire to test the fuel pump operations.

Did you check all the fuses? Another might be fused too.
Is the CEL showing for 2 seconds when ignition switch is turned ON?

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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Hi thanks for the reply. I applied direct voltage from the batt to the fuel pump and it worked, all the fuses are good, and all the ignition ligths comes up when I put the key, and what is the cel?

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

CEL = Check Engine Lamp.

Are there any sparks at the plugs? If yes, then you need to check the fuel circuit. The PGM-FI main relay might be intermittently failing resulting in no power supply to the fuel pump.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIRelay97Accord_2.jpg



Test for power output to fuel pump for 2 seconds when igniton switch is turned ON.

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 2:50 AM
Tiny
NANDO39
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HI, yes there is sparks at the plugs and voltage on the fuel pump plug, but fuel pump not work. Fuel pump only work only went I appied direct voltage.

P.S. SORRY, the wire that I aplied direct voltage was not the black wire on the dash boar was a white wire beside the black one behind the dash boar. That make the short circuit. Can I aplied direct + OR - vlotage to the ECU to see if the fuel pump work? Thanks

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

I am not sure which WHITE wire you are refering to as the power supply from the PGM-FI main relay to fuel pump should be Black/Yellow.

If the white wire is rather larger in diameter, then it should be power supply from the underhood fuse box which leads to the ignition switch. If that is the case, I believe one of the fuse is blown.

I would suggest checking
Underhood fuse box
1. Fuse # 46 (15 A )
2. Fuse # 42 ( 50 A )
Underdash
3. Fuse # 13 ( 7.5 A )

I would advise against shorting or applying voltage to the ECM without understanding the wiring system first.

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 12:18 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Here is a pic of the 2 wire that I applied + voltage and I blow the fuel but I replace the fuse but no want to run. white/silver dot and a black/white line. is there a in line fuse that Im missing? I check under the hook driver and pasenger side for fuses,all Ok .


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/282543_car_2.jpg


hope you can help me

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Did you said a 50A fuse under dash board? I did not see a 50A, the only fuse I check are on the driver side, passenger side and under the hook.

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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

No, the 50 A fuse is under hood Fuse # 42. Guess that is not the cause as it is the main power supply to the ignition switch.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_FuseBox98Accord4cylHood_1.jpg



From the connector can you please tell me the pin # location. I seem to have different wire colors for my diagrams.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_MeterConnector98Accord_1.jpg



I will do some research and see if I can pinpoint the cause.

Ok, I now understand which 2 wires you are refering to.
1. A10 = interior light circuit
2. C4 = Reverse light going to the gear shift.

From the circuit, there should be no connection to the fuse. From where did you tap the battery voltage to initially blow the fuse? What is the fuse location that blows initially?

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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 1:29 AM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

I suggest we go back to the basics to understand what is happening. I would like you to provide me with some information with the following tests before we continue further.

1. Attach a test lamp to distributor Black/Yellow and turn ignition switch to ON. Battery voltage must be available.
If not, check Fuse # 1. If ok, test ignition switch black Yellow wire for voltage, must have voltage, if not switch is faulty.
If above ok, crank the engine. Voltage must be available. If not, ignition switch is faulty.
Sparks must be available at the plugs. If not, either distributor is fasulty or PCM grounding is inappropriate or PCM is faulty.

2. Attach a test lamp to PGM-FI main relay terminal # 2, ( Blue/Orange wire) Lamp must light up while cranking. If not, check fuse # 13 ( 7.5 A )

3. With ignition switch turned ON and while cranking, battery voltage must be present at terminal # 4.

4. Attach test lamp to PGM-FI relay terminal. Turn ignition switch ON. Lamp must light up for 2 seconds.
Item 1, 2 and 3 above must be ok before this test needs to be done. If no power supply, relay is faulty.

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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 2:12 AM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Thank for your time, I did all that, there is voltage on the distributor, spark plug, pgm relay and in the fuel pump plug. I even spray starting fluid on the intake and the car run for a second, but because there no fuel, it shut down. The starter cut relay has something to do?
I notice that during cranking the engine, all the dash board light star flashing even the security light, is that normal? Or the immobilizer is engaged?
There is voltage on the fuel pump plug, but I dont hear the fuel pump humming went I put the key on, but if I applie direct voltage to the pump(not the plug) work. QUESTION, the fuel pump uses less voltage? Dont know what to do, shoud I replace the fuel pump or not. Thanks

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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 1:45 PM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

Dash lights flashing means it is not normal.
1. Faulty ignition switch. Try applying remote power supply to BlackYellow wire at distributor and start.
2. ECU fault. Immo fault would not allow cranking.

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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Thank you so much for your excellent help.I will Apply power supply to BlackYellow wire at distributor to see, I let you know.

P.S. I will not forget you, I will make another donation, THANKS

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Monday, December 8th, 2008 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi nando39,

You are welcomed and thanks for the appreciation, it makes my day ;)

Anything else feel free to ask.

Have a nice day and hope you get the problem solved.

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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 6:06 AM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Hi there, I applied direct + voltage to the BlackYellow wire at distributor and the dash board ights still flashing during cranking the engine and NO star and no noise from the fuel pump and blow the 50A fuse ander the hook. I did check(open) the ignition switch and look ok. I think may be is the fuel pump, if I spray starting fluid the engine star, and went I put the key ON there is voltage at the fuel pump plug but no noise.
So if not the fuel pump, do you think that is a ground problem? Or definely the ECU fault?Do I have to replace the ECU? Thanks

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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

If you suspect the fuel pump to be faulty, try unplugging the connector and crank to see if the fuse blows and if the dash lights flickers. Repeat this with the PGM-FI main relay unplugged if it is not the fuel pump. You definitely do not have fuel but the problem is, is it the control that is faulty not supplying power to the fuelpump or is it the fuel pump that is faulty.

Seems there is a major shorting somewhere otherwise the 50 A fuse would not blow easily. It is possible for the ECM to be faulty but ECM seldom produces major shorts.

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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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I blow the 50A fuse went applying + remote power supply to BlackYellow wire at distributor and jumped the car. All fuses are good now but till same problem.

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Tuesday, December 9th, 2008 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

We seems to be going in circles.

If you have an ECM, I guess now its the time to test it.

By the way you mentioned that fuel is not present and the fuel pump worked if direct voltage is applied. Why don't you try applying direct voltage and try starting.

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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 8:09 AM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Hello again, I applyed direct voltage to the fuel pump(fuel pump work) engine only crank but no star.I repalced the PGM-FI relay and the ligths seem Ok now. I check all fuses driver side with a test light, on fuse #13 7.5A there no power, and went I put the key ON and pres the cluth the #2 wire on the PGM-FI plug there is no power.
PGM -FI plug test
1-PGM-FI #3 ground- yes
2-PGM-FI #7 voltage yes
3-PGM-FI- #5 voltage yes
4-PGM-FI #2 PGM-FI with pedal clutch in NO voltage
and No + power on #13 fuse driver side but fuse is OK.
Any idea whats wrong with this car?

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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
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Hi nando39,

Did you test both ends of Fuse # 13 forpower supply?

No power at fuse # 13 ( 7.5 A). Test if fuse # 11 and # 12 have voltage under same conditions as described.

If no to above, Check Fuse # 41 (100 A ) underhood.

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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
NANDO39
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Hi Guys, yes I test all the fuses on both ends and #11 & #12 have power when the swith is on. Exept on #13 ther is no power. Underhood #41 is good.

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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 7:51 PM

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