1997 Honda Accord I RUN OUT OF POSIBILITIES OF WHY MY CAR I

Tiny
KARLIS008
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
Engine Cooling problem
1997 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 146000 miles

Hello, My name is karla.
My best friend recomended me this page to see if you can help me with my problem :-(

I have spent on my car almost 2500 dollars in the past 2 weeks and I am so upset because I still the same.

while my car is running it stays at the regular temperature, but as soon as I stop on a red light or if I am in traffic it starts overheating al the way to high. (RED ZONE) it even brakes the radiator cap. As soon as the car starts running again the temperature starts cooling down.

the car has NEW:

RADIATOR (new)
THERMOSTAT (new), did not have one previously
ALL 3 TEMPERATURE SENSORS ( fan switch AND Timer fan)
THE FANS ARE WORKING PROPERLY
water pump is in good condition.
timing belt good condition
spark plugs good condition
engine presure is on 150 for the 4 cylinders.
spark plug cables (new)
cover for the valve (new)
air filter is in good condition.

ALSO. I drove from FL to VA and did not have overheating problems until I got to the first traffic light in VA.

NOW my car is not turning on for some reason. It seems like it wants to turn on but it doesn't. Advance auto part has told me that it is the battery because batteries in VA are stronger than FL batteries ( is it true?) And that my car is not use to constant cold lower than 35 degrees.

please help me find out what is going on with my car it is a shame that after spending so much money nothing is better. 5 mechanics and no answers.

thank you.
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 AT 4:29 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Engine cooling depends on a number of factors, coolant, system pressure (this is very important) air flow over radiator, coolant circulation. So with what you have mentioned I would be checking that the radiator cap is holding pressure, with the car driving there is enough cool air to maintain lower temps, with the car stationary the air flow is dependent on cooling fans, as you say the fans are OK, I would be looking at the pressure cap, id it is faulty the coolant will start to boil at a lower temp, (higher system pressure = higher boiling point of coolant) also check for any coolant loss with a system pressure test.

The colder weather will put a strain on older batteries, so if the battery is more than 3 years old up grade to a heavy duty battery.

Start here and re post if you have further problems.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 AT 4:41 PM
Tiny
KARLIS008
  • MEMBER
ALL THE HOSES HAVE BEEN CHANGED TOO, AND THE RADIATOR CAP HAVE BEEN CHANGED 3 TIMES ALREADY?
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

I would be re checking that there is circulation and check that the radiator is uniformly warm, not cold at the bottom and warm/hot at the top.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
KARLIS008
  • MEMBER
THANK YOU,
I'LL HAVE THAT CHECK AND WILL RESPOND BACK.
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Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 AT 5:02 PM

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