Cooling fan sensor location?

Engine overheating as radiator fan doesn't come on. Condenser fan works.
Fuse good. Swapped relays no diff. Powered fan straight from battery and it works fine. Upper rad hose gets hot after engine warms up. Jumpered the cable that plugs into the temp sensor and when I turn on AC both fans run. Thus I think it is temp sensor but my friend says there is a switch on the rad and the engine and one is bad. I can't find any switch and have no manual. Am I right that it is temp sensor or is it a fan switch and if so can I test the switch and where is it? Accord EX 4 cyl. Thanks!

Apologies, this is a Honda Civic EX 4 cyl, not an Accord

Cooling fan is not starting when engine gets up to temp. I replaced the water temp sensor with no results.( Fans do start when A/C is turned on

Yes the fan does start when I jump out the fan switch. I noticed bottom rad hose cool leading to the themostat. Is this telling me that it is stuck closed or not working at all. Top hose is hot as is rad iator

1992 honda accord work done:rebuilt head, complete headgasket set replaced(last week), thermostat, temp sensors, fan sensors(last month), timing belt & water pump(last year), upper/lower rad hoses, radiator(May). I started experiencing the temp rising to half way to almost 3/4 mark when stopped in traffic or sometimes red lights. Fans are kicking on. Took to shop during occurance and shop used temo gun and read max 205 degrees then fans kicked on when they are suppose to(gauge was 1/2 way). Other than thinking either temp sensor, thermostat or rad cap went bad or defective, could there be any other reasons for this? The shop stated usually when the cars overheat, the temp gauge usually goes bad and gives bad reading after that initial overheat. Not sure if this is true or not. They state don't worry about it unless it goes to red. Any suggestions?

This sender was replaced only last month. And the fans are running the correct direction witht the air flow towards block. Sender could possible be defect or bad. Will replace since still under warranty. Will let you know outcome.

Running the a/c does not change the reading on the gauge. I will check the grounds on the side wall just behind the headlightts and the valve cover and p/s bracket.

Something different now happening. Temp gauge going lightly higher when in traffic and fans kicked on like normal then temp goes to normal. I decided to check the reservoir, it was filled to the top and had slightly overflowed so now I have too much coolant pressure in the system and forcing into it. The new hoses are tight as I canot sqeeze by hand. System had been bled andwith this problem, could this be another head gasket issue? Head had been rebuilt andsurfaced and now I wonder if the block surface is slightly warpped. Any advise. I have been pulling this head out a few times and it's becoming a pain.

That does make sense because everytime I removed the head. 2&3 portion of the gasket were always failing even after the head resurfaced. This does help alot. I will consider having shop surface so I can assure the entire surface is even. Thanks for your guidence.

Yea, I am getting nervouse about that because now my valve clearance will be more limited than before. Too bad there are no spacers to make up this difference, unless the performance Headgaskets are more thicker than the Std. Felpro MLS to make up that loss. Hhmmmm.

Question, since I will be taking in the block to get surfaced and steam cleaned, they suggested I take in gutted but don't have to. Since I will have everything taken apart, I am considering replacing the piston rings, main bearings, pan gasket and possible oil pump as well even though there were no issues with that. Am I just wasting $ or best to do it since block is bare?