1993 Honda Accord transmission or timing belt?

Tiny
PSWATCH
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
Transmission problem
1993 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 210km miles

For the last 3 weeks, I have been notcing that my car is not picking up the speed as well as RPMs. When I start moving car with D4, its picks up speed and RPMs normally, but when its changes gear from 1 st to 2nd, it starts dying down. I went to mechanic and he disconnceted the catalytic converter and run the car, problem was still there. Then he adjusted the timing belt and it improved the problem little bit. It still slows down when gears shifts from 1 st to 2nd but then picks up the speed. Mechanic has sugegsted me to replace the timing belt. Plz provide ur suggestions. My concern is if the mechanic replaces timing belt and it does not resolve the issue, what should I do in that case? Is it worth spending that much money as this is 1993 with over 200k

thanks
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 AT 6:42 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi pswatch,

Replacing the timing belt should have nothing to do with the performance unless the belt has skipped a tooth or more.

If the timing belt is due for replacement, then you should not wait as it has dire consequences if it breaks.

Was the ignition timing checked?
Was the fuel filter checked/replaced?
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the response.

Fuel filter is not changed for the last 4 years atleast since I purchased this car and it ran over 35000 km now. Should I go for replacing the fuel filter first?

One more thing I want to mention is that my car does not stall every time. It runs well for few kilometers when parked for some hours.

Could you please guide me from the sypmtoms I mentioned about what should I do next?

What I understand is changing fuel filter, if not worked, checking ignition timing.

Thanks
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Ignition timing would affect the overall performance and is easily checked with a timing light. If adjustment is required, looseing 3 bolts of the distributor to allow the distributor to be twisted clockwise or anti-clockwise would change the timing.

From the symptom description, I would say the possibility of a clogged filter is rather high. After 35 k miles, the fuel filter needs some attention.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2009 AT 8:22 AM
Tiny
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Good Morning,

I changed the fuel filter as well as the ignition timing is corrected. It is little better but stiil when gear shifts from 1st to 2nd, it stalls when the engine is warm. As I siad earlier, 1st 2-3 kilometers are fine and then start the problem.

Has it been the tranmission?

Thanks

pswatch
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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This is a peciuliar problem. Being an auto, it should not have such a problem.

When upshifting from 1st to 2nd gear, the accelerator pedal is being edepressed so it should not cause the engine to stall.

I have never encountered nor heard of a fault with the transmission causing such problems.

When engine stalled, was it easy to restart?
Do you have any starting issues, such as difficult starting at times?
Does the Check engine light ever comes on while driving?

One of the possible cause for the problem could be the Throttle Position Sensor.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
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Engine does not turn off at any stage. If stall means ''shutting down of engine', I think then it would be a wrong choice of word as english is not my 1st language. I am sorry. Any way I try to explain the problem again.

Suppose the car is parked over night. In the morning I turn it on and start driving. No problem for 1st 2-3 kilometers. Being automatic, gears shift by itself without any problem. Then I stop at red light, it turns green and I press gas pedal, RPM increases and car accelarates. Now as the gear shifts (1st to second) nor my car picks up the speed neither RPMs. It takes a lot of load to run.

Check engine never appeared. There is not any starting problem.

So far, I changed fuel filter, adjusted the ignition timing, which was found to be out. Readjusting timing helped a little bit, but problem is still there. Mechanic run it without exhaust to check if something is wrong with cat, car did the same without exhaust. I cant drive it on highways.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
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Ok, I believe I understand your symptoms now.

It most probably is caused by the EGR valve. Disconnect the EGR valve vacumn hose and plug it with something to prevent vacumn escaping. Test drive and see if problem is gone. If yes, remove the EGR valve and clean it, if it is clogged too badly, replacement might be necessary. Clean the exhaust passage under it as well, a stiff wire would make cleaning easier. Earlier models are not that sensitive and the EGR malfunctioning usually does not trigger any codes to be stored.

Problem should be happening somewhere between 1800 to 2500 engine rpm. Full acceleration would have lesser impact but slow to moderate acceleration would have the symptoms. Am I correct?
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
PSWATCH
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I think so. Problem occurs when rpms are around 2k. When cold, it runs normally. Problem starts after running 2-3 km.

Another thing I want to mention here is. My car failed the emission test in feb 2009. An accredited repair facility diagnosed that EGR valves were dirty or clogged. They cleaned the EGR valves and it passed the test. But, since my car passed the emission test, I have been regularly noticing a typical petrol like smell coming out of exhaust. I never noticed this smell before they cleaned the clogged valves.

Thanks
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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When cleaning the EGR, was the passage under it cleaned as well? Clogging of the passage under the EGR valve can cause the problem. Check the EGR solenoid operations.

Fuel smell from the exhaust could be due to a failing catalytic converter or rich running conditions.

Is the Check Engine Light showing while driving?
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 11:15 PM
Tiny
PSWATCH
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As you recomended, I disconnected EGR valve vacumn hose and plugged it to prevent vacuum lose. I test drive it and its doing great. Its now 2 days and its still running like before.
So the next step is cleaning EGR valves as well as the passage under it. What are the chances that this (clogging of EGR valve / passage) may recur. Is there any preventive measure for this?

I highly appreciate your assistance in correctly diagnosing the cause.

Thanks

Swatch
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2009 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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This is due to a not so perfect design and carbon buildup would occur over time. For some models, Honda has come up with a process whereby the passage immediately under the EGR valve is bored bigger and a stainless steel tube is inserted to reduce carbon build up.

If the job is done correctly, it should last you quite some time. Ability to polish the inner passage would reduce carbon buildup as it is more difficult for it to stick.

The only preventive measure is to clean the passage periodically, ie. Maybe annually.
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Thursday, June 25th, 2009 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
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Good Morning,

As I reported 4-5 days ago that car is doing fine after disabing the EGR system and plugging the hose to prevent vacuum lose. It worked well for 6 days and yesterday, it again started doing the same. EGR system is still disabled.

Please provide suggestion.

Thanks
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 8:08 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Remove the spark plugs and compare them for buring conditions. Do not mix them up. Is # 4 spark plug different? Any spark plugs burning differently?

Is the symptom exactly the same as with EGR system connected?

Apart from symptoms described, any new or different symptoms?
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
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I am driving this car only about 15 km a day in 2 diferent parts of 7 km each (to and from my work place).

Symptoms (exactly the same symptoms as before) showed up yesterday but, today, it was again running fine.

Also, day before yesterday, I filled up he gas tank and also added STP in order to clean up the injectors. Immediately next day (yesterady), I noticed the stubling/ hesitation problem, i.E. As soon as gear shifts from 1st to 2nd, RPMs drooped down instatly along with the acceleration.

Thanks
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2009 AT 5:18 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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After reviewing through the data and your description of the symptoms in your previous posts and the latest development, the symptom might not be from the EGR. It just happened that disabling the EGR might have improved the situation temporarily.

I feel the problem should be more towards engine performance due to fuel pressure, throttle position sensor or ignition.

Check the spark plugs, ignition coil and wire conditions.
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2009 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
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As you mentioned here that problem should be more towards engine performance due to fuel pressure, throttle position sensor or ignition. Check the spark plugs, ignition coil and wire conditions.

So I should ask my mechanic to check;

1. Fuel pressure

2. Throttle Position Sensor and

3. Igntion System. Does other 3 things, i.E. Spark plugs, ignition coil and wire conditions comes under ignition?
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2009 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Yes, ignition system covers all those parts and all 3 items are what your mechanic should be looking at.
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Thursday, July 2nd, 2009 AT 12:35 PM

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