Fuse panel diagrams need to know which number fuse?

There is a relay under the dash L/H side and a fuse in relay box l/H side of engine bay it is fuse No 23 rated at 15 Amp. This guide will help you test thf use with the fuse panel diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hello,

The information that you requested is in the diagrams down below. Please go through the diagrams and get back to us if these help. If you should have any other vehicle related questions, please, do not hesitate to ask.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Check fuses 15, 17, 18 in the fuse/relay box in the front of the engine compartment. Here are pictures to help. The second picture is the legend of all fuses in this box. Here is a link that discusses checking fuses:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe

Fuse # 13 I for the IVECS-II, 4AT, MFI system, air conditioningsystem, cooling system and immobilizer.

A short in any of these would cause the fuse to blow.

Thanks for the input, Timbad.

Where such problems are concerned, experience beats anything.

Sounds like you're overlooking a different issue. Fuses had better blow, not melt from over-current, otherwise, what good are they? Look at the terminals in the fuse box to see if they are blackened or corroded. Either of those things will cause heat to build up when current is flowing through them. THAT is what can cause plastic things to melt. Of course that's if the correct size fuses are in place.

To repair melted fuse boxes and switch connectors, you have to cut the overheated terminals out and replace them individually, and replace usually about 4" of the wires that have become hardened. All of the splices and terminals should be soldered and sealed with heat-shrink tubing. Never rely on twisting wires together and covering them with electrical tape.

You could do that too but that's a lot of work. Rather than cut and splice the multitude of wires, there will be a way to release each terminal so you can transfer them one at a time to the new fuse box. That way you still only have to replace the overheated terminals.

Could be you have a loose wire at the back of the fuse box at #13, it is a dedicated fuse for the ignition. Here is the fuse layout for box inside the car: