Fuel pressure

Can you verify the fuel pressure?

Roy

Got 42psi with key on not running, but when you start it fires and shuts off.

Okay, when it starts and shuts off what happens to the pressure?

The fuel pressure should stay the same. I am looking to see if it drops out.

Roy

Direct from the pump measurement it goes up to 100psi then drops to 90psi and fluctuates then goes to 50psi and stays steady and drops slowly. Wont start anymore just cranks but coil has spark and wire but does not want to start even for a second.

Should I check timing if it has jumped even if it has slip 180 degrees it should still start and shut off. Correct?

I know there's a leak somewhere. Maybe injectors, pump, check valve it leak down slowly it takes awhile.

The fuel pressure is way off. There is too much pressure. I attached the spec here for you to see.

Fuel Pressure Specifications

With Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum hose disconnected. 265-304 kPa (38-44 psi)
With Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum hose connected. 206-255 kPa (31-37 psi)

You need to check the regulator as it is what controls the correct pressure to be delivered to the injectors.

Yes, check the timing. If it is 1 tooth off, it may not start. 180 out will definitely not start.

Roy

Even if you're getting spark to the plugs, it wont start at all-perhaps a jump timing belt problem. Thank you my friend Roy.

You are welcome.

Keep me updated.

Roy

I tested the pump directly to the gauge and observe the pressure goes to 100t then drop to 90 fluctuates and then goes to 50 and slowly dropping.

What will make that happen? I remove the camshaft cover and notice that the belt is 180 degrees out, correcting it right now. See you later until I'm done, then we go again for a different problem.

Just change the pressure regulator. What is next?

Just as I stated before change the pressure regulator as it is allowing too much pressure.

Roy

I haven't check the pressure yet but I change the fuel pressure regulator. I still have weak spark, I change the ignitor, crank sensor, check the gap on the p/u, also the negative signal their okay. Verify timing 3 times to be sure. What else do I need to do? Getting sick and tired of this car.

When I crank it it fires on 1st click and shuts off sometimes little longer like 2 seconds then shuts off.

Okay, since you have weak spark, the coil is in the distributor assembly.

Did you replace the distributor?

I attached a picture for you.

Roy

I put in a new coil in it, I check the ne and g 230ohms to include the p/u gap.016 and condenser everything is okay, I don't think I'll be getting a spark if the crank sensor is bad. What's next in line?

Wiring is the only thing left. You will need to load test the wiring to be sure there is no corrosion or frayed wiring.

This is not an ohm test at all. That is not a test for load for a wire.

Roy

What exactly do you meant by this. This is not an ohm test at all. That is not a test for load for a wire.

Where do we start at most commonly area?

Testing for ohms only tells you that is the wire. It does not tell you if it has corrosion or damage.

You have 10 stands of wire in an 18 gauge wire. You can do an ohm test and it will read 0.00 on an ohm test.

If 9 out of 10 wires are broken in the wire, the ohm reading will still be the same. That is why it is not a load test.

Roy

Load test is when you apply voltage to the load?

Correct. You need to check the voltage drop under a load with a 5 ohm load such as a 194 bulb we used in the old days.

Roy

Haven't start the car, 3rd day I started it up ran for few seconds and shut off. What is going on here? Can you give me where to start again?

Disconnected distributor connector I have power on all 4 wires going in the distributor and key on off position. Should be only one when key on -when connector disconnected.

Did you load test the wiring as I suggested?

Roy