Engine has a lack of power?

Tiny
ROBERTO123
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD WINDSTAR
I've worked on engines before, but not for the last 10 years so just to make sure- There's a sucking sound when you step on the gas quickly and the engine hesitates for about 1/2 sec. No matter how far you press the gas pedal, it won't go over 75mph. OF COURSE, the sound is coming from the rear of the engine.
Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 8:02 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
SCHRIMPIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 166 POSTS
This is common when the catalytic converter is going bad but to be sure lets run down these guides to see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Monday, February 23rd, 2009 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
MKALLAMU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
A new cat helped my car but I had to have the muffler replaced to because some of the catalytic material clogged it up.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:43 PM
Tiny
JERATUCC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180 MILES
2003 ford windstar idles rough, loss of power uphill, flashing check engine light, recently changed fuel filter (gas was clean), new plugs (original code problem), wires look like new (asked local parts store, coil looked good too) still having problems
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JERATUCC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Its 180,000 miles not 180 sorry
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check engine light on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LOUIEBILT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
Early in the morning It will start it up and take off with out a problem, But as it starts to warm up it starts to "misfire?" then once fully warm, it bogs out on fast acceleration. If I baby the pedal, it will eventually get moving, but I will have to take the overdrive off so the low speed and high gears will not get the shakes.
I have changed the MAP sensor, fuel filter, checked volt for all air intake sensors. I am thinking coil pack either getting wet or expanding when "warm?" I do not know stretching here.
I read about intake vacuum leak but I do not know about only when hot?
It is my work van and cannot afford to park it to long. Help!
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,882 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you have a problem with the engine coolant temperature sensor which when off a little will cause this problem and not trigger a check engine light. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Here is the location for your car (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARROWDAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Windstar Automatic 52,000 miles

My 2002 Ford Windstar van runs fine when it's warmed up. However, when I start it up cold, it runs just fine for a minute or so at around 1,000 RPM, but it then drops to around 500 RPM and the engines sputters and shakes and just about cuts off. While it does this, I notice that the battery light on the display flashes a few times. After it sputters for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, the RPM goes back up to around 1,000 and the engine runs fine again. It may do this again slightly a couple of minutes later, but not as bad. After the engine is warm and I get going, there seems to be no more problems while driving or idling. What could be the problem, maybe the alternator going bad? Thanks for your help!
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
I don't think the alternator has anything to do with the problem. Has the check engine light ever come on? As far as the light flickering, it is a result of the RPM's droping so low. At that point, the alt isn't producing enough current and it causes the light to come on.

Let me know about the check engine light. To me it sounds like a sensor.

Joe
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARROWDAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Joe, thanks for your response. The check engine light has NOT come on at any time, just the battery symbol flickering when the RPM's drop to around 500. Once the van eventually warms up, there doesn't seem to be a problem. Obviously something is wrong though, because it's not normal for the engine to sputter and almost cut off a minute or two after startup.

I should also let you know that if I decide to go ahead and drive immediately after startup, without letting the engine warm up for a few minutes, and if I come to an extended stop(more than 30 seconds) at a red light before the engine has had a chance to warm up completely, it'll do the same thing and sputter and almost cut off. As usual though, once the engine has warmed up and the temp gauge is at it's normal halfway point, the problem doesn't occur again.

Are you referring to the Fuel O2 sensor?
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
There are many sensors that can cause this type of problem. However, usually they will trigger the check engine light to come on.

When was the last time the engine was tuned up? Also, have you had the fuel pump pressure tested when it's cold?

Joe
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARROWDAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I really don't know the last time the engine was tuned up. This van belonged to my mother and I recently took it off her hands. Ultimately that's probably what it needs, a tune up, especially since the check engine light hasn't come on indicating a serious problem.

I guess I'll just take it in for a tune up and have them check the fuel pump pressure. Thanks for your help.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BILSUE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
When it is cold acceleration is normal. After it warms up to normal operating temperature it is very sluggish taking off from a stop. After I finally get it up to speed it seems to run okay. Have just put in the best set of plugs I can buy. Did not help.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. you may have low fuel pressure causing this or a large vacuum leak that the computer cannot recover from. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please get back to us
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RLACLAIRE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 212,000 MILES
I first had a mis fire code on cylinder 3, so I changed the plugs and wires, I then had a P01071 code, then both P01071 & P01074, I changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump pressure it is 36 PSI. Car ran great for one day, then code P0301 popped up. I replaced the new plug in cylinder 1 and swapped a couple of wires; it still lacks power and is running rough. When I take off it runs rough, then smooths out, but still lacks power
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
The codes are lean bank1, lean bank2. Look for any vacuum leaks at theintake area (pcv line) or cracks in the intake boot between the Mass Airflow Meter and the engine, if ok, you may need a new MAF, they can go bad and cause problems like you describe, but dont always set acode
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RLACLAIRE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you, I will try your suggestions and get back to you.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RLACLAIRE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Well, as suggested, I checked the vacuum and looked at the lines and intake boot; everything is fin, the vacuum was within the allowances and maintain after the engine was shut off. I did replace the MAF and installed a new coil. My mileage has come back to about 20 MPG on the open road, but it is still somewhat sluggish, the light has come back on and it seems to continue to skip some. Periodically the check engine light will flash while it is running rough, but then it will smooth out and the light will stop flashing. To summarize, to date, I have: replaced the plugs, wires, coil, MAF and fuel filter; checked the fuel pump pressure and vacuum, which have shown to be within manual spec's; checked hoses and intake boot which are okay.

Anymore thoughts?
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CATFISH1973
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 184,000 MILES
My 98 ford windstar is losing power after driving it a short while. It will backfire or you hear a sputtering sound here and there. We just changed all the wires and plugs last night and still doing it. The engine seems to be running fine just losing power and will **** lightly here and there. I can let it sit for 5 mins. And it will drive good for a min. Then will start doing it again.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Have you done a diagnostic scan? Not all fault codes will set a MIL, do this and report what you find.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)

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