Engine not starting

Tiny
BLDG4488
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 120,000 MILES
Saw your earlier answer about the starter relay in the fuse/panel box. Does the relay replace the starter solenoid? I get one click and then nothing, I remember jumping the big brass connectors on solenoids on Fords as a kid, but they were up front, visible, and accessible.

Thanx

Dan
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Sounds like you have a bad starter motor. Make sure the battery is good as well.

Relay does not take the place of the solenoid

Roy
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARKITO
  • MEMBER
I am not a master certified Tech but I can Reassure that what he is saying is true. The relay your reffering to( Starter Relay ) is just so the ignition switch doesn't have to bear the amount of current draw that the starter motor needs. It protects it from possible damage. Pin numbers 85 and 86 are the pins to the coil of the relay which is what teh ignition switch is attached to. Pin numbers 30, 87a, and 87 are the contact points to which the starter control circuit is connected.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BWEEDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
2003 Ford Taurus 65000 miles

My car will not start. It does not click when you turn the key in the ignition nor does it even try to turn over. The headlights, interior lights and the radio work great. They do not dim when I try to turn the car on. There is no sound that comes from the engine at all. I have check the battery and the fuses. Please help.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Suspect a bad starter
check starter and small switch wire connection on it
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES916
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 108,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 108000 miles

Gear shift is on the floor, not stearing column mounted. All lights will work. I keep trying to start and moving the gear shift around in park. So far, after working with it for several minutes, its always started and and shifted out of park within about 5 minutes.

Thank you
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Engine crank but will not start or no crank!
After starting step on the brakes and check if brake light on
If not check and replace the brake light switch
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SEADOZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
Electrical problem
2003 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 96000 miles

My car was fine, then during one start up all the electrical systems seem to work intermittently. The car will not start and when I turn the key I hear a series of clicks coming from the fuse box area and from some relays under the hood. My question is could this be as simple as a bad starter or battery? They seem to be fine on the surface.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Make sure the open voltage on the battery is 12.6 volts or better with cleaned and properly tightened terminals. Could also be the starter-Do this when it refuses to crank -have helper hold key in crank position bang on the starter if it cranks over-replace the starter. If not could mean the ignition switch/park and neutral switch/starter relay/starter.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIDIOWADOG
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
My car has just started acting up since the weather has been warmer. After driving it I shut it off and if I let it sit for 10-15 minutes it usually will start up but it barely will turn over if it is warmed up. I had the battery checked which is fine. The guy at the parts store said it probably would be the coil the way I described it to him does that sound right?
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MEMBER
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTWBAKER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I have a 2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L (vin: u). It started after being driven and ran sluggish and died several times.
I got it towed home and when listening for the fuel pump to prime, it wasn't. We replaced the feul filter first, which was very, very dirty, then replaced the fuel pump.
You can hear the fuel pump priming but the car still won't start/run.
We did check for spark and it does have spark, when you turn the key, you can hear the fuel priming at the injector rail too, but still won't start.
I'm hoping you could give me some idea what could be causing this or where to look next to get the car running.

Thank you
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
You got spark and the correct fuel pressure -now is the injector/s pulsing providing fuel to the cylinders, valve and igniton timing could be way off
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOOLIGAN409
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,000 MILES
Electrical problem
2003 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 122000 miles

I have a 03 taurus that stalls out on me randomly while driving. Some times it will run fine for 2-3 days then it will stall out while on the road, usually starts right back up. Other times it just wont start for 30-45 min. While trying to start it nothing cranks over but all of the lights work perfectly. Took it to 2 different shops they said the had no idea. Anyhelp would be Greatly appreciated

Thanks
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Stalling I would've thought idle air control valve
but when it didn't start for 30 to 40 min
then you need to start checking (fuel, spark, codes)
I would check fuel pressure and fuel pump
any check engine light on?
Have it scanned for codes
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOOLIGAN409
  • MEMBER
The intake was changed about a week ago and the problem came back, the fuel pump along with the relay was changed in july (check engine light was on) But the 2 shops I took it to said there were no codes and there is no check engin light on so im completly stumped
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check engine was on
then it should have codes
something is missing here!
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOOLIGAN409
  • MEMBER
Check engine was on when the fuel pump was changed in july the car didnt start stalling and failing to starrt until december there was no check engine light for this problem. I've gotten a few people with similiar problems and hey all needed a new computer - maybe this is why there are no new codes or back codes?
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
I don't think so and you do not have any thing (symptoms) to support this idea
Check tranny cooler line very common for the clamps to loosen up
and if its the tranny solenoid gasket its a simple job
PCM very rear to fail and you can reprogram them if needed
we had seen a lot of issues with the idle air control valve
I would recheck that area

DRIVEABILITY - IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 03-3-5, Date of Issue: February 17, 2003
FORD: 2000-2003 Taurus; 2002 Thunderbird; 2000-2003 Explorer, Ranger; 2001-2003 Explorer Sport Trac, Explorer Sport LINCOLN:2000-2002 LS MERCURY:2000-2003 Sable, Mountaineer
Related Ref Number(s): 03-3-5
ARTICLE BEGINNING
DESCRIPTION
DRIVEABILITY - IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS
ISSUE
Some vehicles, may exhibit driveability conditions. These may include:
? No start
? Difficult to start
? Stall
? Low idle
? Rough idle
? High idle
? Hesitation/surge while accelerating or at steady speed
These conditions may be intermittent with no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) and no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). In some cases DTC and MIL may be evident.
ACTION
Trouble cannot be identified with 95% of returned Idle Air Control (IAC) valves. The following procedure is supplemental information to normal diagnostics to facilitate accurate identification of malfunctioning valves. These symptoms would include engine stall, hard start, crank/no start, idling problems, and Idle Speed Control System related DTC's.
If the service writer uses the attached worksheet (Fig. 2 ) for all driveability concerns including stalls it will assist the technician making a correct repair the first time.
Perform normal diagnostics.
SERVICE INFORMATION

NOTE: IT MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE TO DUPLICATE THE CUSTOMER CONCERN. ALTHOUGH THE CONDITION MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT ANY EVALUATION OF THE IAC VALVE BE DONE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE FOLLOWING SERVICE PROCEDURE.
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - GENERAL
Never clean an IAC valve. Carburetor cleaners and other cleaning agents may temporarily repair the driveability concern, but the long-term functionality of the valve is compromised.
For all driveability concerns, make certain the service writer obtains as much information as possible from the customer as to the conditions causing driveability concern.
NOTE: IF THE ENGINE STALLED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN GEAR AND MOVING THE POSSIBILITY OF THE IAC VALVE CAUSING THIS IS UNLIKELY UNLESS IT OCCURRED ON DECELERATION.
Use the following Supplemental information for 3.0L 4V Duratec Engines, in the Taurus/Sable, and Lincoln LS.
1. Use the following conditions for the test described below:
? Transmission in park.
? Engine temperature should be at least 190 F (88 C).
? All accessories should be off steering wheel in the center position.
? EGVR and EVAPDUTY CYCLE at zero, if the vehicle has an EGR system.
? Short and long term fuel trims less than 15%.
? At stabilized engine speed (RPM) and temperature (hot idle) per the Powertrain Control Emission Diagnostics (PC/ED) manual, verify the IAC duty cycle is within reference values called out in the following chart in this TSB.
NOTE: IT IS USUAL TO SEE THE IAC DUTY CYCLE VARY BY 1% TO 2% OVER SEVERAL MINUTES.
If the Duty Cycle is out of specification, proceed with the following steps:
1. Ensure that there is no purge flow. 2. Verify PCM harness integrity by performing a wiggle test on the harness while the engine is running and observe the IAC duty cycle and engine performance. Should abnormalities be observed, repair the harness as required. 3. For an IAC duty cycle high concern, unplug and plug in the IAC power connector several times. If the duty cycle remains high, replace IAC valve. 4. For an IAC duty cycle low concern, there may be an intake air leak. See the below IAC diagnostic service tip for DTC 1506 and other high idle concerns.
Use the following Supplemental information for the 3.9L Lincoln LS and Thunderbird.

1. Use the following conditions for the test described below:
? Transmission in park.
? Engine idle at approximately 650 RPM.
? Engine temperature should be at least 190 F (88 C).
? All accessories and the engine cooling fan should be off.
? Steering wheel in the center position.
? EGRVR and EVAPDUTY CYCLE are zero.
? Short and long term fuel trims less than 15%.
NOTE: IT IS USUAL TO SEE THE IAC DUTY CYCLE VARY BY 1% TO 2% OVER SEVERAL MINUTES.
NOTE: IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO CHECK THE IAC DUTY CYCLE WHEN THE RPM IS AT 650 RPM. EVEN 700 RPM IS TOO HIGH FOR CHECKING THE IAC VALVE DUTY CYCLE UNDER THESE CONDITIONS. IF THE RPM IS OVER 650 RPM, MOMENTARILY OPENING AND CLOSING THE THROTTLE AND A SHORT EQUILIBRATION TIME WILL LOWER THE RPM.
At stabilized engine speed and temperature, verify that the IAC duty cycle is between 27-36% with no purge flow (EVAPV duty cycle is 0%).
If the Duty Cycle is out of specification, proceed with the following steps:
1. Ensure there is no purge flow. 2. Verify PCM harness integrity by performing a wiggle test on the harness while the engine is running and observe the IAC duty cycle and engine performance. Should abnormalities be observed, repair the harness as required. 3. For an IAC duty cycle high concern, unplug and plug in the IAC power connector several times. If the duty cycle remains high, replace IAC valve. 4. For an IAC duty cycle low concern, there may be an intake air leak. See the below IAC diagnostic service tip for DTC 1506 and other high idle concerns.
NOTE: IF THE ORIGINAL IAC VALVE WAS WITHIN DUTY CYCLE SPECIFICATION OR THE DUTY CYCLE REMAINS OUT OF SPECIFICATIONS AFTER IAC VALVE REPLACEMENT FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS ARE REQUIRED TO ADDRESS THE CUSTOMER CONCERN.
Use the following Supplemental information for 4.0L SOHC Engines in the Ranger, Explorer, Mountaineer, Explorer Sport and Explorer Sport Trac.
If no DTC's present check the following items in this order before examining the IAC valve:
? BARO Hz reading - Refer to Barometric Pressure Chart listed in this TSB
? Battery and fuse box power lead

? Ground wire attachments
? Wiring (wiggle test)
? PCM voltage
? Vacuum leaks
Examine IAC valve under these conditions:
? PCM updated to the latest available calibration.
? Transmission in park.
? Warm stabilized vehicle with engine temperature at least 190 F (88 C).
? All accessories and cooling fan should be off.
? Steering wheel in the center position.
? EGVR and EVAPDC at zero, if the vehicle has an EGR system.
? Short and long term fuel trims (less than 15).
Perform the following steps in order:
1. Using either NGS or WDS bring up the following PIDS: IACTRIM, IACKAM2, IACKAM3. 2. Allow vehicle to idle until the IACTRIM PID is 0.
NOTE: IACTRIM ALWAYS TRIES TO GO TO 0. WHEN MOVING TOWARDS 0, THE IACKAM2 PID SHOULD BE CHANGING. IF IACKAM3 IS CHANGING, THEN THE AIR CONDITIONING SHOULD BE TURNED OFF.
3. If IACKAM2 is between -0.35 and +0.35 with IACTRIM=0, then the valve is operating properly at idle. The remainder of this TSB will help diagnose true root cause. 4. If IACKAM2 is not between -0.35 and +0.35, it is highly likely that the engine idle system (to include the throttle body and air intake system) is not operating properly.
NOTE: FOR ALL VEHICLES PLEASE RECORD THE OBSERVED IAC DUTY CYCLE AND ENGINE RPM IN THE WARRANTY CLAIMS COMMENTS FOR THIS DIAGNOSTIC.
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - DTC 1506 (IAC OVER SPEED ERROR) AND OTHER HIGH IDLE CONCERNS
? There are two primary causes of high idle: 1. Damaged IAC valves and 2. Vacuum leaks
? IAC valves can be damaged from engine induction backfires. Many times the customer may not notice the induction backfire but will notice the high idle afterwards. Indications of valve damage can be a shiny, almost polished appearance in the interior of the valve and a dislocated pintle. An IAC valve damaged by backfire should be replaced. Refer to Fig. 1.
? Inspect PCV system for leaks especially looking for cracks along any rubber elbow joints; also

DRIVEABILITY - IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIP.
Page 5 of 8
verify that the correct PCV valve is installed.
? Inspect for vacuum hoses loose or disconnected from intended ports and connections. Induction backfire can loosen or disconnect vacuum hoses.
? Two indicators can help you identify if a vacuum leak is present, even if the engine RPM appear normal in the service bay. If the duty cycle is below specification that is indicative that the engine is receiving too much air (from a vacuum leak) and the PCM is ordering the valve to close up to restrict flow. Another indication is fuel trim. Record the long term and short term fuel trim PIDS (LONGFT1, LONGFT2, SHORTFT1, etc.), If short term fuel trims are high (above specification) this is a possible indication of a vacuum leak, making the engine run lean, and the PCM is attempting to compensate.
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - DTC 1507 (IAC UNDER SPEED ERROR) AND OTHER LOW IDLE CONCERNS
? An under speed error may not necessarily be a fault with the IAC valve. A large friction load on the engine or obstruction in the air intake system could also reduce the engine RPMs.
? There are four possible sources of friction load that can contribute to under speed error or low idle concerns. 1. Power Steering Load 2. Air Conditioning Load 3. Electrical Load 4. Automatic Transmission Torque Converter Load
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - ROUGH IDLE CONCERNS
? Rough idle concerns are often a result of a lean running condition
? Another possible cause is contamination build up on the MAF sensor
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - ENGINE HARD START/ENGINE CRANK-NO START
? While performing diagnostics, the technician should ensure that the fuel system is working correctly for all engines with hard start/crank no-start complaints.
? When diagnosing a mechanical return less fuel system, the following correction to the PC/ED pinpoint HC (4) diagnostic procedure should be used when performing the KEOE fuel pressure test:
? Perform the KOEO fuel pressure test as specific in the PC/ED manual.
? The fuel pressure should drop off no more than 10 psi from maximum pressure (no lower than 55 psi for a 65 psi max system or no lower than 45 psi for a 55 psi max system) within 5 minutes of the start of the test.
? The fuel pressure should drop off to no less than 30 psi within 30 minutes of the start of the test.
? For greatest accuracy, the service technician should read the fuel pressure as soon as possible after pump shut off, no more than 5 minutes after the start of the test.
NOTE: RETURNABLE AND ELECTRONIC RETURN LESS SYSTEMS SHOULD ALSO BE
DRIVEABILITY - IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIP.

IN PINPOINT TEST HC.
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - HIGH IDLE RPM AT START UP
? Most engines will have a temporary high idle at engine start up to allow for catalyst light off. If DTC 1506 is not present, this indicates that there is no fault present with the IAC.
? A vehicle with very low odometer miles, may exhibit a higher than normal temporary start-up fast idle (1600-2500 RPM that decreases slowly). No repairs should be attempted because this is a normal temporary PCM calibration strategy to prevent spark plug fouling during plant/transportation operation. The calibration will permanently revert to its normal strategy after the PCM has seen its first 4 miles of continuous drive cycle. A brand new vehicle may accumulate some mileage without turning this strategy off if the drive cycle has been below 4 miles at a time.
IAC DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS - IAC VALVE NOISE ISSUES
For IAC valve noise concerns check for obstructed or potentially damaged IAC valve from backfire
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 12:09 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOOLIGAN409
  • MEMBER
Its deffinatly not the IAC, that was changedaround dec 18th. The mechanic who has it now say it stalled for him and its deffinatly an electrical proble, any ideas on what the most likely cause of this would be

thanks
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