Mass Air Flow Sensor

Tiny
JOSHUA REYNOLDS
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136,000 MILES
I get codes p0171 and p0174. I cleaned my MAF, but am not sure which way the sensor goes back in. Does the metal looking side of sensor face towards the air filter or does it face the hoses?
Wednesday, August 10th, 2016 AT 6:49 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
The plastic screen faces the air filter side. Also, sounds like you could very well have a vacuum leak setting those codes. This guide can help find it with the instructions in the diagrams below to show how the MAF sensor is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-mass-air-flow-sensor-maf

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2016 AT 7:11 AM
Tiny
NESS332003
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
Hello well im having a problem with my car well suddenly the second gear wonts work after cheking with computer scan we get this message error code p1000 the mecanic think its the air flow sensor the most amazing thing is when I turn off the engin the oil comes out from the taransmission gauge plz tell me whats going on? Thanks a lot
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Code p1000 will not cause a check engine light to come on
p1000set when system was reset, battery was disconnected,
monitors not ready
have to drive it until monitors say ready
then this code will go on its own
check engine will return if you have other issue
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TJISSHORT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD TAURUS
I have a 2002 ford taurus with the 3.0 dohc engine and 60000 miles, and recently I got a check engine light with codes of P0172 and P0175, meaning that the engine is running to rich. Could this be a sensor problem or is it something with the fuel system?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLMO
  • MEMBER
  • 72 POSTS
The PCM (computer) is like a weatherman. It's right 50% of the time.

I would start with the basics - pretend you're working on a '57 Chevy or something - no computer.
1. Check for vacuum leaks.
2. Check for any other obvious (or not-so-obvious) problems, no matter how small or insignificant.

Now, we look at cause and effect. If you have any actual symptoms, make a note of the symptoms and driving conditions. For instance, are there any funny noises, smells, etc? If there are no actual symptoms, then you can start to look at why you're running too rich.
Are you idling too high? If so, then it could be the idle air control valve. However, if you're idling around 700 RPM, then that's probably not the cause.

The oxygen sensors set their own specific codes when they go bad, so unless there are other codes, I would not worry about them.

The mass airflow sensor is a possible cause, because if it goes bad, it could cause the computer to think there's not too much air, thereby richening the mix.

If these don't do it, then you could take it to the dealer and just run a diagnostic, no repairs, since the car is drivable. They'll charge about $100 to give you the answer, then you decide whether you can do it or not.
Good luck.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KOSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
Engine Performance problem
2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Automatic

About a Month ago My Wife took Our car to Autozone to test it after the check engine light came on. The car ran fine except the light was on.

The test showed to be the MAF Sensor so She purchased it and they just replaced it there. Now after getting the car back the engine light is no longer on but the car is having problems starting and cuts out when the gas is pressed hard or especially at idle.

When starting the car We now have to pump the Gas pedal to start it and it dies when placed in drive or reverse a couple times in the Morning usually.

Thanks for any help
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
I would suspect wrong or defective MAF sensor
Check for vacuum leaks
Clean IAC valve
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KOSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank You. It was definitely a defective MAF sensor but after they replaced it the engine light came back on though and after another test now they say it needs the EGR Valve, O2 Sensors, and Intake Air Temperature Sensor replaced even though It ran fan before.

We also took the car back 3 weeks ago to ask about the MAF Sensor and instead of informing us that they are sometimes defective and offering a replacement they just sent Her home and She drove the car for 3 weeks. Could this have caused the other problems?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Not really
Would start from fresh change the MAF sensor
Clear codes and drive it light come back on
Read the codes and let me know
Vacuum leak very common and hard to catch without the proper equipment
And will cause all kind of codes and misdiagnose
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KOSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks! Just finished checking around and noticed a hissing noise and found the leak!

Much Appreciated
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RVOGT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
My 2001 Ford Taurus recently had the check engine light come on and a few days later started idling rough. It stalls out sometimes at a stop and you have to give it gas to get it started. I had the code pulled and it indicated a lean condition and pointed to either the Mass air Flow sensor or the O2 sensor. I put a different (used) Mass Air Flow sensor but that didn't help at all. What is the chances that I got another bad one (do they tend to go Out?) And is it more likely to be the O2 sensors?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

You may well have a faulty sensor, you may have a vacuum leak problem or an O2 sensor, also a exhaust leak up stream of the O2 sensor can give this code also a faulty injector can produce a lean burn as well.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KOSS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Unfortunately We still have not fixed this problem as I first thought.

I finally broke down, took it to a shop and They said it's guess work from here with no engine light and it's probably a bad sensor since the problem is not always noticeable.

I've noticed It's definitely worse with the air on now that it's warmed up outside.

I still have the 02 sensors from when the problems first started, should I just replace them instead of returning them?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROBENIUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 148,000 MILES
Check engine light is on. Computer lowers rpm so low it shuts down when at idle. Diagnostics say it's the mass flow air sensor. Have replaced five mass flow air sensors, four sets of O2 sesors, 6 sets of spark plugs, the EGR valve and fixed a few vacuum leaks. Diagnostics also say bank 1 is lean. On side mounted engines which is bank 1(The firewall or the radiator side)? And any ideas on clearing check engine light. Everytime repairs are done it's good for anywhere from 100 to 500 miles
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
If the light is coming on, it is still seeing a problem. Do you feel the miss from cylender 1? Has the idle air control valve or throttle position sensor been checked? Has the EGR been checked to see if it is carboned?

Let me know.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROBENIUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Throttle position sensor has not been checked. EGR has just been replaced. If I hold foot on excellorator and maintain rpm at 600 or greater till car warms up it will run fine. If you don't hold accelorator computer lowers rpm down to400 to 450 and after a little while will increase rpm up to 800 or so. Don't notice any miss.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
It sounds like the idle air control, a vacuum leak, or a temp sensor. Something tells me that it isn't getting enough fuel when cold and that is the issue. Most likely a temp sensor. Sorry, it makes it a lot harder when I'm not there to check things.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)

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