2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 65000 miles
Installed tee in inlet hose and flushed, repair shop flushed core, changed thermostate. No Heat. Shop wants to replace water pump, is that the right way to go? Should I try replacing cap on plastic filler jug? When it is removed it has some pressure on it.
Not Sure What To Do Next
if you open the hood and check by the firewall you will notice two heater hoses going into the firewall and connect to the heater core
this is a common problem that I've seen and is the heater core need to be flushed
Check coolant level
Is the car reaching operating temp
Check heater core hoses if both are hot,
if both hoses hot and not enough heat inside suspect blend door actuator
if not one hose hot and the other warm or cold the heater core need to be flushed (very common)
as a 1st step
these are the steps
WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE AND/OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE, USE EXTREME CARE WHEN REMOVING THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP FROM A HOT COOLING SYSTEM OR DEGAS BOTTLE. WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP AND TURN IT SLOWLY UNTIL PRESSURE BEGINS TO RELEASE. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN CERTAIN ALL PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED, PRESS DOWN ON THE PRESSURE CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE PRESSURE RELIEF CAP.
lower the coolant level
Locate the two hoses running to the heater core
disconnect them at the engine side leaving hoses connected to heater core throw the firewall
make sure you pinch and close the bypass hose between the two heater hoses
use garden water hose and compressed air if possible
run the water and follow by air throw one side and out the other and vice versa
do that two to three times watching what leaving the heater core you are looking for the good flow and clear water to run throw
top off coolant system
November, 30, 2009 AT 7:36 PM
Flushed heater core, still no heat. Repair shop thinks its water pump due to bulletins on my vehicle. Could they be right?
November, 30, 2009 AT 8:51 PM
Never heard of so called water pump bulletin on your model
did you isolate heater core and flush
because you need to do so flushing the coolant system will not help at all in the heat issue
make sure you plug the bypass hose in-between the inlet and outlet of the heater core located by the firewall
we do at least two a day now the cold weather is here
December, 1, 2009 AT 4:24 AM
Yes flushed core from both sides by mechanic. He now says its the pump. Should I take it somewhere else? More than one person has told me to get the actuator door checked first. Is that something I can check?
Just tryed to donate but web site will not take.
Will try again
December, 1, 2009 AT 8:24 PM
Thank you !
Yes you can check if its the blend door actuator
start and warm the car
open hood and locate the heater core hoses check them both if they hot
if both hot and dont have heat inside its the blend door or its actuator
if one hot and other cold or warm heater core need to be flushed (very important to block the bypass hose )
or you can flushed 20 X and will not effect the heater core
if engine not reaching operating temp thermostat is at fault
if its overheating and coolant not circulating through the system suspect and check water pump
January, 6, 2010 AT 1:39 AM
Have/had the same problem. It is *not* the cooling system. Because of unrelated cooling issues I have replaced the thermostat (id10t put it in backwards) upper and lower hoses, water pump (previously replaced; suspect because id10t put thermo in backwards) radiator (side can developed leak) temp sensor (for fans; clogged) flushed system completely,
and there are *no* restrictions in heater hoses or core, (know this because of multiple drains of coolant where I could see good flow, hose pressure, temp, etc.). When putting in a new car stereo, id10t knocked off orange power lead to blend door actuator *and* pulled off two of the three leads to the temp control potentiometer (cold/hot knob). Default is to keep door closed, hence cold air only. Make sure all connections to actuator and temp control are good, then check blend door actuator. These cores can plug but rarely if cooling system is well maintained. There is no coolant flow heater control valve as many manuals refer to so don't go looking for one. Also before you do any of this, check for a bad heater fuse which actually services the blend actuator module. Hope this helps.