2001 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 78000 miles
i replaced the alternator with a re-built one. But before I replaced the old alternator I noticed the red charging lead had burned off at the alternator, I replaced the connection with a soldered on identical lead, battery is good. The problem I am having is that the alternator is charging at 13.5 to 14.0 volts all the time at some point the alternator starts a high pitch wine, if I disconnect the voltage regulator leads (2 wire clip plug) from the alternator the high pitch wine stops. And the red alternator lead comming off the alternator cool down.
after re-connecting the regulator leads back to the alternator it will run quiet for a while then start the high pitch wine for a while and the red terminal lead gets real hot. Can you help. I do have a certificate of automotive mechanic for basic auto studies.
To better assist you is your model the LX, SE, SEL, or SES and please tell me your engine size in liter
August, 30, 2009 AT 5:56 PM
3.0 liters SE
the red lead coming off the alternator was re-sodered with a new connector clip identical to the one that was connected to the alternator then a small amount of electric tape was wrapped around the red wire to make sure there was no contact to ground. This wire still gets very hot at the connection to the alternator, alternator still at times when under load (air on, head lights on, ) has a winding sound that is very loud then after a while quiets down then gets loud again.
August, 30, 2009 AT 7:30 PM
Usually a whine means something with the bearings, but it may be the unit is making noise due to the high output it's trying to do.
Soldering a connection like that, is one of the times it's kind of frowned upon as the amount of amperage that is flowing thru the wire at times can actually heat up the soldier of the connection. Best for a good crimp and soldier or new wire.
I'd check that first, but I've found that some value line alternators are actually rebuilt have issues from the rebuilder including the battery light staying on due to the regulator being bad.
Voltage at idle with no load is normally 14.0 volts but no higher than 14.5 volts with a low of about 13.5 volts or so. But an amp meter that can actually measure output is best
August, 30, 2009 AT 7:51 PM
Thanks for the info...............
My first suspect is the voltage regulator is not working correctly.....that is moutned internally and cannot be repaired.
System consists of a 130-amp generator, voltage regulator, battery, charge warning indicator, related fuses and wiring. Charge warning indicator illuminates with ignition on, engine off as a bulb-check. Voltage regulator is mounted internally. Internal regulators cannot be serviced separately.
Please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O'Reilly's (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don't get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.
I have also attached the wiring diagram of the system.....
August, 30, 2009 AT 8:55 PM
Also, it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.