1999 Ford Taurus Intermittant Misfire

Tiny
IRONMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
1999 Ford Taurus, 96,500 miles, 24 Valve DOHC 3 Liter V6 engine.
My Taurus occasionally idles rough or misfires when driving or sitting still. The check engine light is not on. I used dry gas and the problem seemed to clear up. After a few more tanks of gas the problem returned. I then used Gum Out total gas system cleaner thinking a fuel injector may be clogged. This also seemed to help, however, the intermittant misfires or idle jumps returned. I have tried other gas stations and higher octane, however, the problem still occurs. The Ford dealership placed the car on their diagostic computer and everything checked out ok with no error codes. The transmission is ok. The spark plugs and wires were replaced at 90,000 miles. The Ford serviceman said to bring the car back when the problem gets worse. He said possibly I may have a wiring problem or short circuit somewhere. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 21st, 2007 AT 2:56 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Is the problem only occuring during idleing? Or also while driving? If only at idle, try cleaning the Idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttle body and has a connector on it, two 8mm bolts hold it on. Be careful removing it unless you buy a new gasket! Use gumout to clean it and just a rag, no Gumout in the throttle! Teflon coating can be damaged if you use the wrong cleaning solvent! You may need to replace the IAC!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, October 21st, 2007 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
IRONMAN
  • MEMBER
Merlin2021
The problem occurs "occasionally" during both idleing and while driving. I state "occasionally" since one day it may not occur at all, especially after the time I added drygas. I could try cleaning the idle air control valve however based on your response I am concerned about damaging the gasket. Do you have an internet link that shows a photo of this valve? Is it possible a fuel ejector may be clogged eventhough the Ford diagnostic computer indicated it was fine? Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 22nd, 2007 AT 6:21 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/privmsg.php?folder=inbox&mode=read&p=23774
Try this solution, especially in hot weather...Fuel can boil in the rail!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 22nd, 2007 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
IRONMAN
  • MEMBER
Merlin2021
Please re-check the link you sent. There is no information provided after I click on it.
Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 24th, 2007 AT 6:54 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I'm having trouble with it I guess, this was posted by an old Ford troubleshooter. Try it and see what happens. HELLO! Let me take a stab at this. Relatively cheap test/possible fix. Take it to repair shop and raise it in the air. Remove the shield that covers the bottom of the radiator and a/c condenser. With a bright light. Look up between the rad. And cond. I'm sure you will see what looks like a thin blanket covering the rad. Fins. Have the poor tech create a tool using a 24in metal fuel line and his blow gun. On the blow gun. Remove the OSHA approved restricting tube. Take the fuel line and cut one flare off and remove the flare nut as well. Leave the other flare and nut intact. Flatten and pinch off the cut end. Then use a hacksaw to create a right angle outlet on the cut/crimped end. Only cut 1/3 the way through. Attatch the tube to the blow gun. Yes they are different threads but the metal flare nut will cut new threads. He now has a new money-making tool. Connect to air hose and insert between rad. And cond. Blow first toward the eng. Through the rad. Fins and stand back because stuff will fly. Then have him blow back through the cond. Fins. Once again. Stand back because sand will fly out. Because of the relatively small but concentrated air flow at 100psi this tool will remove your blanket, improve your a/c performance and keep your engine running cooler. What I believe is happening is. Now follow me. It's hot outside. So you run the a/c that creates heat. You are at highway speed more heat but also more cooling airflow being forced through the rad. Fins because of your speed. You start to slow down. Less airflow. The fuel in the fuel rail starts to boil(yes I said boil) your injectors are now getting bubbles instead of fuel. Your engine stumbles and maybe dies. Your engine cools some. It restarts because of no bubbles. You go back to slower driving speeds. Runs good. Print this out for the tech. Don't let them tell you that the rad. Has to come out for proper cleaning. Don't let them use water pressure through the cond. This causes a hard mudpack if you don't already have one. If you do. Spray water up between the rad. And cond. And wait 10mins before using the air tool. If they charge you more than 1hr labor they are ripping you off. Please get back to me with your results
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, October 26th, 2007 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
IRONMAN
  • MEMBER
My wife drives the Ford and indicated that it drove terrible yesterday. Yesterday we had rain downpours and 50 to 60 degree temperatures. The idle seemed to "misfire" or jerk more often than usual. She said the engine also stalled once. Now I'm not sure if I have a radiator debris problem. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, October 27th, 2007 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Still no codes? Cleaning the radiator will not hurt. Even if it's not the answer. Make sure the plug on the Crank sensor is on tight. MAP, MAF, and vacumm leaks can also cause your symtoms. Unplug the MAF see if it improves. If it does you can try cleaning the heated wire with alcohol and a q-tip, or replacing it. Check for vacuum leaks with a can of spray gumout, spray around the intake, and vac lines, if the idle changes, you found a leak.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, October 27th, 2007 AT 8:40 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides