1994 FORD TAURUS NO SPARK

  • Tiny
  • Rsukovich
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS

Electrical problem
1994 Ford Taurus Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160K miles

Re: 6 cyl 3.8 ltr engine. New plugs. I'm not getting a spark. I used an induction type timing light and clipped on to the coil wire and then to a plug wire and had someone turn the engine over as I pulled the trigger on the light and it didn't go on at either place. The coil checked out OK with the ohmeter test. What would be the next simplest thing to check?

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Saturday, April 24th, 2010 AT 11:43 AM

8 Replies

  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
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With key on use a test light and check for power at the coil if so
Suspect and replace spark control module

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Saturday, April 24th, 2010 AT 5:40 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rsukovich
  • MEMBER

I turned the key on and tested the coil by putting a test light lead on the coil terminal and grounding the other. The light did not go on, so I guess there is no current going into the coil. I want to check the spark control module, as you refer to it, but I don't see anythng called out with that name. Could it be know by another name?

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Saturday, April 24th, 2010 AT 7:23 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Check fuses and ignition switch and wiring

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Saturday, April 24th, 2010 AT 9:57 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
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Ignition Control Module


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Capture1_6.jpg

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Saturday, April 24th, 2010 AT 10:05 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rsukovich
  • MEMBER

I went back and redid my tests. I disconnected the wire coming up to the coil. That particular connector has two terminals (female) and of course, the coil has the male connectors. I took a DC test light and put a probe into one of the terminals on the female connector and turned the key on, and proceded to ground the other end of the DC test light and the light went on. I turned the key off and the light went out. I'm assuming that there is the proper current coming up to the coil via that connector. I proceded to reconnect the connector to the coil hooked up the DC test light again connected one end of the light to the terminal on the coil and turned the key on grounded the other end of the light and it did not go on. Should I assume from this that the coil is not good? PS thanks for the diagram of the distributor, but my car does not have that type of distributor. Mine is described as a Universal distributor that has a diescast housing with a Hall effect distributor stator.

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Sunday, April 25th, 2010 AT 3:57 PM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE
Application Primary (Ohms) .8-1.68
Secondary (Ohms) 700-11,500

Check for PIP at the coil
Use the test light ground one end of the coil and use the other to check wire at the coil
Coil connected back prop the ground wire and turnkey on light should come on
Crank engine light should blink


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic_68.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_714.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic2_328.jpg

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Sunday, April 25th, 2010 AT 5:52 PM
  • Tiny
  • Rsukovich
  • MEMBER

COIL TESTING: Prior to connecting the meter probes to the coil. I "zeroed out" the meter and confirmed the function of the meter by touching the black probe to the red probe and the needle went to zero. Next I checked the coil primary as follows; I connected the black meter wire to the (+) terminal of the coil and touched the other terminal (-) of the coil with the red probe of the meter and the needle went directly to zero (0) as if no resistance at all. Next I checked the coil secondary as follows; I connected the black meter wire to the (-) terminal of the coil and touched the post of the coil with the red probe of the meter and got a reading of 6 on the RX1000 ohm scale. According to the required readings, it looks like I got a complete coil failue. Do you aqree?

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Monday, April 26th, 2010 AT 11:37 AM
  • Tiny
  • BMRFIXIT
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Your reading indicate a bad coil
replace coil and check

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Monday, April 26th, 2010 AT 6:24 PM

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