Car wont start

Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
So everything is just the same when the vehicle wont start as when it will?

Engine cranks the same
same fuel pressure, same fuel injector pulse.

Same spark color, def, speed?
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARCUS71186
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • 128,938 MILES
!994 Ford Taurus 3.8 will crank yet will not start. I have power to fuel injectors, power at pins 8, 12, 13. Good ground at pin 15. Good spark. Yet Constant Control Relay Module is buzzing. Please help Thank You
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
That relay is a common failure and contains the fuel pump relay as well. Check for any fuel pressure

Roy
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-1
Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARCUS71186
  • MEMBER
Great Fuel pressure.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOANNAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
Electrical problem
1994 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I can start my car right up the first time, but after I drive it around for awhile then turn my car off, if I try to start it again it struggles. If I turn it off once more then try to start again it wont start at all and acts like it's a dead battery. If I wait a long time and try to start again, it will, once it's cooled down.

The starter has been replaced, the battery is brand new.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Check and test the starter relay, transmission range switch and ignition switch make sure the battery and connections are good
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOANNAL
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much. I told my dad, and he said that he would do that and that it was very good advice. Hopefully it works out!
Thank you very much. Lets hope he finds the problem.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LOUISW0
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 168000 miles

when key is on. Radiator fan runs even when motor is cool, fuel pump also runs. If this condition exists car will not start. If fan does not run and fuel pump stops running, car will start. I replaced fuel pump but not compensator on fuel pump asembly. I replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure seems to be in limits. Fuel pressure is 44lbs. With key on engine not running, drops to 39lbs. When engin starts. What could be the problem?
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Suspect relay
A black box by the radiator fan top of radiator battery side
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POOKIENICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 207,000 MILES
Fuel pressure regulator install a ford taurus sho 1994
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I'm not sure if you need directions for installing a regulator or if you are telling me that you already have and the car still won't start. Can you explaine?
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TRANCIE27
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Computer problem
1994 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles

I have a 1994 ford Taurus GL with a 3.8L. Recently I have run into the oddest problem I have ever had with a car, and despite my best efforts, I am completely stumped. When you turn on the ignition, the fuel pump powers on like normal, but wont shut off, it normally shuts off after 2 - 3 seconds. Now it will go until the battery drains down. The radiator fan comes on immediately, no matter what temp it is out side, that has never happened before. And the idle air control valve starts making a soft buzzing noise, don't know if it has before or not. And the car will not start. It turns over, but simply wont start. I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, filters distributor, rotor, egr valve, and egr pressure sensor. I have absolutely no idea where else to look other then the PCM or the ECC. Any help will be appreciated.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Top the radiator by the battery side black box
its the CCRM relay module give it a try
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOATLESS29
  • MEMBER
I had a 94 doing the same thing it has 2or3 ground wires by the top radiator that had corroded and one had broke might be worth looking at
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUSAN ABRAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD TAURUS
My 1994 SHO 3.2 with a new motor in it as of 1-2006, 157 is the miles on car, has been starting ruff after I have driven it for about 4 to 10 miles, the check engine lite will come on and the RPM gage will stop working around the fifth mile of driving. When that happens I can't get it started unless I hold my gas pedal to the floor, turn the key on and wait until all of the lites go out before starting. When doing that about half of time it starts ok and the other half of the time it starts ruff. When it is cold it will start just fine. I have had 4 shops try to pull the codes but nothing is recording. (Running and not running) I have jumped the self test input with the singal return, and tried to read the lite as it flashes.I realy want to know where to start. FYI here are all of the codes that I could get from the part store, only one that came up: 212 Loss of ignition diagnostic monito input to spark output circuit grounded and 214 Cylinder identification circuit failure and 332 EGR flow insufficient. Please let me know if you can help
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER
Well i'll give this one a shot. But I think your motor is a 3.0
1. If you rpm guage or tach as it is called gets its referance from the green wire at the coil for have been known to have a problem with the plug that pluges into the coil. Try to tighten the terminals up and spray a little wd40 in the plug and connect it and disconnect it a couple times. It can also make it hard to start.
2. Another thing to check and there known for this also, taurus, sable, tempo you will have to remove the plate that is under the steering wheel the one that you knees almost hit. This will expose the wireing for the switch they be yellow wires look them over real close for burning or burn't wires. But I think you coil may be your real problem and if you have not done a tune up might be good time to do one.
3. The EGR thing is. The DPFE which is (duel pressure feed back) sensor. Look for the EGR pipe you will see a rubber hose connected to this pipe if it is not that is what it is telling you EGR flow insufficient. The sensor cant read the flow cause that hose is not on there or it is burned into or the DPFE is bad or it is pluged it is a little grey looking box just follow the little rubber hose up to the box the tube gets pluged up. Everything souldns electric to me check the COIL.(NOS)
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUSAN ABRAMS
  • MEMBER
It is a 3.2 and I have replaced the EGR and I know it is hooked up with vacuum. I Will check to wireing to the RPM. But the odd thing is it works when the check engine lite is out. As for a tune up it has been done. Put all of it together I still am not sure what to do next besides taking out the voltmeter and start checking everthing.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER
The way i'am reading it is. Code 212 loss of Ignition Diagostic Monitor (IDM) signal - short to ground in Spark Output (Spout) circuit. What this means is there is a little square plastic thing that connects in the wireing harness. You pull this out when you want to adjust the timing. And when your done you plug it back in. It is usualy found down by the distributor. There saying it is shorted to ground so that means it either fell out or the wire it plugs into has a hole bubbed in it and shorted it to ground.
Changeing the EGR valve won't cure the the flow problem on the 332 code you need to find the DPFE sensor like I explained in last message it will either have two rubber hoses hooked to it or just one this box that they hook too is what reads the flow coming from the exhaust.(NOS)
the module and the stator control the refence in the ignition circuit fixig the first one may possible take care ot the other
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUSAN ABRAMS
  • MEMBER
I did ajust the timing when the tune up was done. I had believed the guy who put the new engine in that all of the old plug in had been clean good first. What I found was that the coil and Map plug ins had 12 years of dust and stuff in them. After cleaning the plugins on all of the sensor that have come up as a code the car hasn't missed a beat. Thank you so much for your help.
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER
You are very welcome glad to be of some help. Just had to do a little spring cleaning. Lol 8)
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Thursday, March 16th, 2017 AT 12:44 PM (Merged)

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