Won't start

Tiny
DOC714
  • 1996 FORD RANGER

Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 300000 miles

I started my truck, drove it about 200 yards and it quit, like someone turned off the ignition switch.
No indication of trouble beforehand. It cranks, but will not fire up. The fuel pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned and there is pressure at the fuel injector rail valve.
I even dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel pump/sender. The fuel pump ran fine with 12 volts applied to it.
I put an inductive timing light on some of the plug wires and get an intermittent spark on most plug wires. It sometimes gives a single, muffled backfire when cranking, but won't fire.
About a year ago, it ran very poorly after warming up so I put in in the shop. The Ford dealership replaced an ignition block and it has run flawlessly up until now.

I went to the local AutoZone and rented a fuel pressure test kit, $149.95 deposit, plus tax, BUT, I get it back when I return it. NO RENTAL FEE!
Anyway, I connected it to the schrader valve on the injector rail. It went up to 40 lbs pressure when I cranked the key. It's getting, and holding fuel pressure, but still won't fire up!
Since one coil pack is only about a year old, I think it highly unlikely that both coil packs are bad, causing no spark.
Could the crankshaft position sensor be the culprit, since it was running perfectly, then just quit?
Only thing is, on my 96 Ranger, 2.3 four cylinder, I have to remove the air cleaner assy, the alternator belt, alternator, THEN drain my coolant and remove water hoses JUST TO GET TO THE THING!
Is there anything I can do before I go through all of that?
I'd sure hate to go through that process, remove and replace it, and it isn't the problem.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is what are the chances of this being the problem part?

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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 8:30 PM

77 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

If the ignition coils are okay and the ICM your last stop is at the CPS

Here is a guide that will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 2:20 PM
Tiny
DOC714
  • MEMBER

Thanks for responding!
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, no progress there(very difficult and troublesome to get to and replace.
I even rented a diagnostic code reader, brand-new. I hooked it up and it said - "PASS, No codes present".
Since I know the coil blocks are good, could it be the cam position sensor (CPS)? There aren't any other components left in the electronic ignition system to check, are there?
BTW, what is the ICM?

I have a new cam position sensor, but can't find it on the engine to replace it (96, 2.3L).
Also, where is the ICM located? I can have it checked.

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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

The camshaft sensor is located on left front of engine behind oil pump pulley.

Your ICM looks like this below and I dunno where its located been looking into Mit1 and Alldata auto references no exact location-sorry


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_icm_8.jpg

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Sunday, February 21st, 2010 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
DOC714
  • MEMBER

Thank you for the pics, now I know what it looks like. I have searched my truck for 2 days and cannot find this ICM module. Is there anyone out there who knows where this module is located? I called the local Ford dealer today and all they told me was that it was in the inner right fender. IT'S NOT THERE!

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Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

I've checked with Alldata and it says its integrated with the powertrain control module-Computer

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Monday, February 22nd, 2010 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
DOC714
  • MEMBER

THANKS!
Well you know my next question is - Where is that? Is it under the dash?
I'll bet that's expensive!
I'm not about to tear down half the engine to replace the cam position sensor and everything else is good. I just checked the coil blocks with an ohm meter, primary and secondary seem fine.

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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 11,708 POSTS

Hello,

The PCM is located in the firewall on the passengers side. Here is a diagram that shows its location.

Please check the timing belt as well.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
JOHNBUMF150
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 170,000 MILES

This truck will not fire and I need help.I have replaced the timinbelt, cranksensor, both coil paks and still no fire I need help please

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
  • 25,483 POSTS

Start at basics

compression, fuel pressure and spark. Let us know what is missing

Roy

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNBUMF150
  • MEMBER

Spark. Gets no spark

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DROCK86
  • MEMBER

My 2005 ranger is doing the samething. Did you ever find out what the problem was?

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEHAMILTON
  • 1996 FORD RANGER

Electrical problem
1996 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 200000 miles

I try to start my vehicle and all I get is a clicking noise. I have power, and believe the solenoid is getting power, but why will my truck not start. I started it at work and it started fine, drove home(spun out on icy roads), and came inside for not more than five minutes, but when I went back out and tried to start my truck all I got was the clicking sound. Is is possible a wire came off when I spun out or do I need to have someone look at it.

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Do you mean it cranks over and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing/nada?

Cranks and w/n start

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEHAMILTON
  • MEMBER

It will not crank at all, it just makes a clicking noise when u turn the key it does not even attempt to crank

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMXWAYNE
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 300,000 MILES

A couple of days ago the truck had one small backfire when taking off from a stop earlier today the truck stalled on take off from a stop and restarted fine then later in the day the truck stalled once again on take off from a stop and will not restart noticed a chunk missing from the edge of the timing belt so figured that it must have lost some teeth on the belt and jumped out of time but upon tear down found that to not be the issue so attempted to retrieve codes with a scantool and it is unable to establish a connection to the pcm so am I right in assuming that the pcm is done for please help asap this is my dad's truck and is very much needed by him as it is his work truck

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,976 POSTS

The Engine Computer should be your last suspect. The timing belt may indeed need to be replaced, but that won't cause an intermittent problem, or one that magically fixes itself at times. My guess is you needed to disconnect the battery when you replaced the timing belt, and that would have erased any fault codes. Those should have been the first thing to check, but if the Check Engine light didn't come on, chances are if there were any codes, they weren't related to the intermittent stalling.

What I would do now is check first if you have spark. If not, the main suspects are the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and ignition module. Any of those can become intermittent and heat-sensitive. If you're lucky, you'll get a fault code to set during cranking that will indicate which signal is missing. Two different types of camshaft position sensor were used so you'll have to refer to the service manual for service procedures. If you can't get a code to set, you'll need a scanner, (not a simple code reader), to see which signal is missing during cranking. If one of them is missing, there's a 50 percent chance that sensor is defective, but there's also a 50 percent chance of having a stretched or corroded connector terminal or some other wiring problem.

If you do have spark, the next step is checking fuel pressure. Low pressure can cause stalling and backfiring from a lean condition. The fuel supply system isn't monitored so you won't get fault codes related to it, but you might get a code related to the results of low pressure, like "running lean too long".

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMXWAYNE
  • MEMBER

Did you not see the part of my question where I stated that my code reader is telling me it is unable to link to the computer

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,976 POSTS

We read that all the time. You can try checking for a blown fuse, but most commonly you need a real scanner that displays live data and has bi-directional communication so it can talk back and forth with the computers. Most of the time the issue is the code reader is not compatible with the vehicle. It will work on other vehicles, and other code readers will work on your truck.

If your code reader worked on this truck before, it's back to the fuses. You're dealing with two different problems, ... The inability to communicate with your code reader, and intermittent stalling / no-start. If we were to assume they are both related to your Engine Computer, as you suspected, they involve two totally different parts of it, so it isn't likely you'd develop two different problems at exactly the same time. The only things those two parts would have in common are the power supplies and the grounds. There's usually multiple grounds, and there's going to be multiple 12 volt feeds, each on its own circuit that is fused in some way. That's why to check the fuses. If you did have the battery disconnected, which you still haven't said, it's real common for fuses to blow when the battery is reconnected, from the current surge of the various computer memory circuits charging up.

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMXWAYNE
  • MEMBER

My scan tool is capable of reading live data and I hadn't thought to check the fuse as I have never had a pcm fuse blow when reconnecting the battery and I know the scan tool is compatible with the truck I have used it on this truck multiple times without any issues but if the pcm fuse is blown wouldn't that cause the diagnostic plug to not turn my scan tool on

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Thursday, May 4th, 2017 AT 7:13 PM (Merged)

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