Ignition switch

Hello,

Ok, Sounds like you are replacing the Lock Cylinder and Key and not the Ignition Switch. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

LOCK CYLINDER Removal & Installation (With Key) 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL. Remove trim shrouds. Set ignition switch to RUN position. On vehicles with A/T, set selector lever to Park position. 2. Push retaining pin inward and pull out lock cylinder. Unplug wiring from lock cylinder. To install, lubricate lock cylinder. Turn lock cylinder to ON position. Push retaining pin inward and insert lock cylinder into housing. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure.
Then check the ignition switch, not the lock, but the plastic part the harness plugs into, what does it do when you turn the key to onn? Accy? And start?
Here's the proceedur for the ignition swith, more commonly the problem than the lock!
IGNITION SWITCH Removal Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering column shroud and lower column. Unplug switch connector. Remove retaining nuts or screws. Lift switch vertically to disengage actuator. Remove switch. Installation 1. With lock cylinder and switch in LOCK position, position ignition switch onto column and actuator rod. New ignition switches come positioned in LOCK position with shipping pin in side of switch. Position switch on column, and install, but do not tighten, retaining nuts. 2. Move switch up and down along column to locate midposition of rod lash. Tighten retaining nuts to 40-65 INCH lbs. (4.5-7.3 N.M). Remove shipping pin from side of ignition switch. Connect battery cable. Check for proper starter operation in Park and Neutral. Check all switch positions for proper operation.

(Note sometimes you will need to drill the hole out because the cast metal is in the way.)

REMOVAL:
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the steering wheel.
On vehicles equipped with tilt wheel, remove the tilt lever.
On vehicles equipped with tilt wheel, remove the steering column collar by pressing on the collar from the top and bottom while removing the collar.
Remove the instrument panel trim cover retaining screws. Remove the trim cover.
Remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the steering column shroud. Remove the bottom half of the shroud by pulling the shroud down and toward the rear of the vehicle.
Turn the lock cylinder with the ignition key in it to the ON position. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission be sure that the selector lever is in the P position.
Push up on the lock cylinder retaining pin with a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) diameter wire pin or small punch. Pull the lock cylinder from the column housing. Disconnect the lock cylinder wiring plug from the horn brush wiring connector.

INSTALLATION:
Prior to installation of the lock cylinder, lubricate the cylinder cavity, including the drive gear, with Lubriplate  or equivalent.
To install the lock cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the ON position, depress the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder housing into its housing in the flange casting. Be sure that the tab at the end of the cylinder aligns with the slot in the ignition drive gear.
Turn the key to the OFF position. This action will permit the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder casting housing hole.
Using the ignition key rotate the lock cylinder to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions. Connect the key warning wire plug.
Install the steering column lower shroud. Install the steering wheel.
Check for proper vehicle operation in P and N . Also be sure that the start circuit cannot be actuated in D or R .

STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION:

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Center the steering wheel to the straight ahead position.
From the underside of the steering wheel, remove the screws that hold the steering wheel pad to the steering wheel spokes.
Lift up the steering wheel pad and disconnect the horn wires from the steering wheel pad by pulling the spade terminal from the blade connectors.
Remove the steering wheel pad. Loosen the bolt 2 or 3 turns from the steering shaft.

CAUTION
Tilt columns have a compression spring under the steering wheel that can unexpectantly "pop up" the steering wheel if the bolt is removed completely.

Using the proper steering wheel removal tool, loosen the steering wheel on the steering column.

WARNING
Do not hammer on the steering wheel or the steering shaft or use a knock off type steering wheel puller as damage to the steering column will occur.
Remove the tool and the steering wheel retaining bolt then lift off the steering wheel.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure that the steering wheel is properly aligned before installing the lock bolt. Torque the steering wheel lock bolt to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-45 Nm).

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Yes, for your vehicle the steering wheel needs removed as mentioned above to replace your vehicle's ignition lock cylinder.

Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com!

Next time don't wait 15mins-Do below to catch it if its fuel or spark related probelm

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

If it's clicking then switch must be working, most likely it is charging system, could be alternator weak and not charging battery.

What the car was in the body shop for? Do you have any codes or no codes, included pending codes?

Crank sensor will make the car to die. Try tapping on it once the car gets warmed up.
There is no code,
disconnect any sensor , start the car and see if there is engine light. Make also sure the computer ground is clean.

I do not think it the heated oxygen sensor.
according to the diagram , the BL LT gr wire could be the cause.but you could test it and get it out of the way.
I'm sending a diagram so we can work on it together.
the problems is electrical,chassis ground after the car have been inactive could cause the problem.
you said tested all ground, included chassis?because rust is the enemy of chassis ground.
look at the diagram, the ignition coil is grounded to chassis.

if you can't see I'm sending the same diagram by email to you.

Measure the resistance between the ICM terminals as shown below:
GND-PIP IN: should be greater than 60 ohms.
PIP PWR-PIP IN: should be less than 2,000 ohms.
PIP PWR-TFI PWR: should be less than 200 ohms.
GND-IGN GND: should be less than 2 ohms.
PIP IN-PIP: should be less than 200 ohms