1993 Ford F350

  • 1993 FORD F-350
Brakes problem
1993 Ford F350 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

replaced all brake parts front & back master 3 times booster twice have to when I crank truck up pedal goes to the floor can pump pedal for a little or let it sit & idle then I get a little pedal but I can also press down on pedal & push it to almost the floor but the truck will stop maybe its the abs valve dont know I have bled them many times & adjusted rear brakes they are new also
Do you
have the same problem?
Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 12:23 AM

1 Reply

Changes in brake pedal feel or travel signal something could be wrong in brake system. When diagnosing brake system problems, use brake warning light, pedal feel/travel and fluid level as indicators. Following symptoms indicate brake trouble:
Pedal goes down fast.
Check for leaks or air in system.
Pedal goes down slowly.
Check for external or internal leaks.
Pedal is low and/or feels spongy.
Check for empty master cylinder reservoir, reservoir cap vent holes clogged, rear brakes out of adjustment or air in system.
Pedal effort too high.
Check for binding or obstruction in pedal linkage. Check for poor booster assist.
Brake warning light is on.
Check for low fluid level, ignition wires too close to fluid level indicator assembly, damaged indicator float, low vacuum (diesel) or applied parking brake.
Use following list of symptoms to aid in diagnosing hydro-boost problems:
Brake pedal returns slowly.
Check for restriction in return line between hydro-boost and power steering reservoir.
Check for incorrectly connected return line.
Reposition brake pedal or add return spring.
Replace hydro-boost.
Brakes grab.
Tighten power steering belt.
Flush steering system while pumping brake pedal.
Replace hydro-boost.
Hydro-boost chatter/Pedal vibration.
Tighten power steering belt.
Check for low fluid level.
Accumulator leaks down/No reserve brake application.
Replace hydro-boost.
High brake pedal effort.
Tighten or replace power steering belt.
Low fluid level.
Replace hydro-boost.
Brakes apply by themselves.
Restriction in return line.
Return line not connected correctly.
Replace hydro-boost.
With engine stopped, remove vacuum in system by pumping brake pedal several times. Push pedal down as far as it will go. If pedal moves downward slowly, hydraulic system is leaking. Check hydraulic system for leaks.
With pedal pushed down as far as it will go, start engine. If pedal moves downward, vacuum system is okay. If pedal does not change position, a problem exists in vacuum system. Check vacuum system for leaks.
Bronco, "E" & "F" Series
To check master cylinder for internal leak, fill reservoir as necessary. If fluid level remains constant after several brake applications, measure wheel turning torque necessary to rotate wheels with brakes applied.
To measure, shift transmission into Neutral, and raise front wheels. Apply brakes with a minimum force of 100 lbs. (45 kg), and hold about 15 seconds. With brakes applied, attempt to rotate front wheels with 75 ft. Lbs. (102 N.M) of torque. If either wheel rotates, check front chamber of master cylinder, and replace parts as necessary. Repeat test for rear wheels.
Brake warning light should only come on when ignition is in START position or when ignition is on with parking brake applied or fluid level low. On diesel vehicles, brake warning light should also come on when vacuum is low.
If brake warning light does not come on when brake fluid is low, manually push reservoir float to bottom of reservoir. If light still does not come on, check circuit fuse, wiring and bulb. Repair as necessary. If bulb and related circuitry are okay, replace reservoir assembly.
If brake warning light does not come on when parking brake is applied, check parking brake switch, circuit wiring and bulb. Repair as necessary. With parking brake released and master cylinder reservoir full, turn ignition on. If warning light is on, check for shorted, grounded or defective warning switches or wiring. Repair as necessary. Turn ignition to start position. If brake warning light does not come on as a bulb check function, check fuse, bulb and wiring. Repair as necessary.
If complaint is low or bottoming out brake pedal, run engine at idle with transmission in Park or Neutral. Lightly depress brake pedal 3 or 4 times. Wait 15 seconds for vacuum to build in booster. Depress brake pedal until it stops moving downward.
While holding pedal down, raise engine speed to about 2000 RPM. Release accelerator pedal. Brake pedal should move downward as engine speed returns to idle. If results are correct, system has proper pedal reserve. If results are not correct, check for adequate vacuum. If vacuum is okay, replace vacuum booster.
Charge system with pressure by holding steering wheel on steering stop or by holding brake pedal down with 100 lbs. (45 kg) of force for 5 seconds with engine idling. Turn engine off. After 8-12 hours, depress brake pedal with engine off. If power reserve is not present, replace hydro-boost unit.
CAUTION:DO NOT hold brake pedal with 100 lbs. (45 kg) of force for longer than 5 seconds at a time.

With a "T" fitting, connect vacuum gauge into vacuum line between engine and power brake booster. With engine at operating temperature, gauge should read 15-19 in. Hg at idle with transmission in Neutral. If reading is below specifications, stop engine, disconnect vacuum hose at power brake booster and cap open end of hose and open port of vacuum "T".
Start engine, and allow it to idle. If vacuum reading is still less than 15-19 in. Hg, engine is producing low vacuum and problem must be corrected. If vacuum is to specification, check plastic check valve, rubber grommet and vacuum hose connection at power brake booster.
With low engine vacuum corrected and/or leaking components replaced, start engine, and allow it to idle. Stop engine, and depress brake pedal, holding down a few seconds. If vacuum drops to zero, booster is leaking and requires replacement.
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Sunday, December 21st, 2008 AT 7:03 AM

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