1999 Ford F-150 won't start won't crank guages quit working

Tiny
JOHNRANDELLF150
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
I was having issues with the truck being sluggish to start for a few days. I hauled a heavy load home Saturday and Got up Sunday to offload. Only got a click. Put a charge to it got several clicks. Guages and aftermarket radio were pulsing Voltage showd extremely low. Placed a new starter selenoid on
Got more clicks. Had neighbor jump start me fired up.
Died about 15-20 seconds. Went and bought new battery. Theft light/ abs lights blinking, odometer showed dashes, guages went flat.I checked what relevent fuses I thought might be bad, nothing there.
Today charged battery placed on, no guages no crank. Checked starter connections, checked for shorts. Any ideas would be appreciated
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Monday, April 5th, 2010 AT 12:46 PM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. I am not familiar with your rig. If your voltage is low, stuff acts funny sometimes. It sounds lke a voltage problem at my first glace...I could be wrong!......Your battery may not be getting charged, or is bad.........TRY SOME OF THIS IT MAY, AT MINIMUM, GET A BAD/ LOOSE CONNECTION FIXED.....Print it and highlight them off the list as you disqulify them.......GOOD HUNTING!!!

Disregard some of it, that you know does not pertain to you! For I robbed it from another answer I wrote.

Have your alternator tested at a popular parts store for free.

If they can, test your voltage regulator, too (it is a separate box on Fords)

See if your battery is 12 or so volts---not running.

And 13.8 or so running---to see if you are charging thru alternator/ voltage regulator.

See below, all of this stuff has connections to your charging system in some sort of waygood connections are important! (Especially to recharge your battery)

I made this for "Not Starting Up" questions.

Yours May Not Look Like This (MY PIC), but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

FOLLOW YOUR POSITIVE BATTERY WIRE, IT WILL END UP AT MR. SOLENOID

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. (grounds to engine and frame is included)

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, (I get few) Good or Bad. I spent alot of time doing this, I am a member, just like you, NO PAY FOR ME! Just a hobby while laid up, with foot injury (15 months so far)

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Do not ask me car computer questions (90s on up), I am not up to par on that subject!

Ask me anything else! Reply and let me know your outcome.

JUST A LITTLE LOOK OF CONCERN FROM ONE OF MY 2 BABIES!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_GOOD_OLE_WILLY_1.jpg

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Tuesday, April 6th, 2010 AT 12:46 AM

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