1999 Ford F-150 Electrical issues

Tiny
ZODIII
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD F-150
1999 Ford F150

Hi guys, I am helping a friend work on his car and it has me completely stumped. When he tries to start his truck, the started clicks and his power goes crazy. His lights starting flashing, his gauges go up and down, there is a clicking from his fuse box and his starter just clicks.

I thought maybe his battery was low, so we tried to jump his truck but it did the same thing. The Positive terminal had some corrosion so we replaced that, and still did it. Took the battery and alternator to AutoZone to have them tested and they both passed.

I'm really at a loss for words here, I have no clue what it can be. Anyone know what could be causing this?
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Saturday, August 21st, 2010 AT 10:16 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile,

OK Boss, SEE MY PROFILE. Stole below from another question I answered (I type slow)

The following is not all going to apply to you....it was written to another Jeep Guy.

Most of it will apply---Jeep used Ford solenoid systems for years. (Your solenoid is on a newer model, and these pics are from '86 on back CJs, and the same year son back for the FORDs) BOTTOM LINE---just perform the TASKS it describes....One day I will take a pic of the newer style and label it as well!

Pay special attention to explanations ABCD1234567

Respond at bottom..."REPLY TO QUESTION"

Hope you bring back good news.

The Medic

----PASTED ON PORTION

Several things to check :

IS YOUR BATTERY GOOD?

WILL IT "CHARGE" and/ or JUMPSTART? If so, your Battery may be the SOLE PROBLEM!

See if "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is putting out constant 12V instead of 12V when key is in the start position (temporary 12V while starting only) I'll give you a "Nelsomatic" Pic

THIS IS MASSIVE OVERKILL--BUT LOOK AT, MAKE SURE YOU ARE SET UP LIKE THIS

TEST "S" and "I" make sure they do what the diagrams say they should do (MORE STUFF AT BOTTOM)

Yours may not look like this,

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

IF YOU HAVE A JEEP CJ, YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR WIRES IN THE EXACT LOCATIONS AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS BELOW----TEST "S" WIRE, while removed from the solenoid (12V ONLY w/key cranking [starting position],) AND INSURE IT GOES ON LOCATION "C"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION (via "RESISTOR WIRE, COMING FROM YOUR "ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH"). IGNITION SWITCH IS "ROD OPERATED" AND IS LOCATED 12 O'CLOCK ON YOUR STEERING COLUMN....OTHER SIDE OF DASH...OVER YOUR PEDALS

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

(If you are not a CJ, this below, may not apply to you!)

Unfortunatly your Jeep is almost as old as my newest! (My '77 CJ 5)

People tend to rig up stuff/splice/remove things over the years....

Are you running a COIL---EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY?

The wire from your key (on position) is not all, but partly a RESISTANCE WIRE (just like using a CERAMIC type resistor) UNLESS SMARTY-PANTS GOOFUS removed/replaced/tied into it, years ago

Any wild stuff with the ignition module wires?

The Medic
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Saturday, August 21st, 2010 AT 10:34 AM

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