1998 Ford F-150 Loss of power in vehicle while driving

Tiny
SAMMY102
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
We just had the starter and batttery cable harness replaced. Now when driving the truck for approx 30 mins. The gauges all drop down to 0 and there is a beeping noise for 10 seconds. The truck drives for some time. Some times for 20 mins with the gauges all at 0 or for 2 mins. Then you lose all power to the vehicle,
the truck just stops. With a boost it starts up right away but will only maintain for a short distance When the truck sits for some time it will start up again on its own. The battery has been replaced.
Tom.
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Monday, April 5th, 2010 AT 9:25 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. I am not familiar with your rig. It sounds lke a voltage problem at my first glace...I could be wrong!

Have your alternator tested at a popular parts store for free.

If they can, test your voltage regulator, too (it is a separate box on Fords)

See if your battery is 12 or so volts---not running.

And 13.8 or so running---to see if you are charging thru alternator/ voltage regulator.

See below, all of this stuff has connections to your charging system in some sort of waygood connections are important! (Especially to recharge your battery)

I made this for "Not Starting Up" questions, disregard some of it!

Yours May Not Look Like This, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable. (grounds to engine and frame is included)

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Love, Turddog


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Do not ask me computer questions, I am not up to par on that subject!

Ask me anything else! Reply and let me know your outcome.

JUST A LITTLE LOOK OF CONCERN FROM ONE OF MY 2 BABIES!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_GOOD_OLE_WILLY_1.jpg

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Monday, April 5th, 2010 AT 10:31 PM

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