1997 Ford F-150 wont start

Tiny
MILANFIRE22
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
I have just replaced my starter and installed a new battery and the truck now will not start and when I turn the key the truck unlocks and then locks the doors and I hear a clicking sound so I had someone else turn the key and the starter relay by the battery clicks so I replaced it and it still just clicks and no engine crank at all>?
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 6:54 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Test the ignition switch and transmission range switch
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile. Sent this to somebody else, pick thru it, something may help you, let me know if it does.

Jill, see my profile, 1st Insure your battery is fully charged. MAYBE this might help you, get your Baby back on the road.

If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!

Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to "TRY" to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question". Somebody else may jump in with a better answer.

Love, Turddog

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 8:43 PM

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