1995 Ford F-150 no spark

Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I rebuilt the engine & transmission (was a Ford tech for 20 years, but previous to this eec). Have no spark from the coil. Replaced the coil & distributor with known good running identical truck, still no spark. Checked cam/crank timing (both gear marks pointing to each other) Info I've found online suggests there is no TFI, but appears to be one on driver's fender well next to firewall. Also, assume the sensor on top of the block behind intake is cam position sensor; could this be bad?
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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 9:39 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
If your ignition module is on the fender, it's duraspark, not TFI...and either the the duraspark module is the problem, or cam sensor. Here's a wiring digram to help with testin, check for power at coil and at the module...
also check PCM power relay in the under hood fuse block.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_igna_1.jpg


Check relay #1 And fuse #22


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_relaya_1.jpg

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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 11:23 AM
Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
The module mounted on the fender well (ICM, I believe) is identical to the one that was on some models mounted to the distributor, and has an oblong connector. When mounted to the inner fender, it is mounted to a heat sink. The sensor on the back of the block is the knock sensor. (Verified by comparing parts at parts house.) I substituted the relay from the running truck, along with the icm & the distributor & coil. Still no spark. I put the parts from the non-running truck on the other truck, and the truck ran fine. I guess all that remains is the computer under the dash?
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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Or the ignition switch and fuses. Also read the codes, like this: Jump the two termnals shown together and turn key to "ON" and count the flashes... a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Pre_95_FordJump_4.jpg

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Saturday, January 23rd, 2010 AT 9:51 AM
Tiny
SDICO
  • MEMBER
Also tried swapping computers - both work in the running truck, neither work in the non-running truck. I read the codes; 116, 565, and 636. One is evap. Solenoid, I verified that it opens the vacuum line when ign is in, another is engine coolant temp sensor out of range, the sensor is brand new. Won't it be out of range until the truck is running? Third is trans. Temp. Sensor, since trans was also rebuilt, there is probably no fluid contact yet, since trans has not been completely filled? Is there a way to check these sensors w/ a volt/ohmmeter? The connections at the coil show battery voltage on the right connector with ign. On, while cranking, left connector shows 3 volts less than battery voltage. Coil has also been replaced, as terminal tip was broken. I've checked wiring & connectiors, no visible problems or corrosion. I've replaced fuses and the relay. I'm stumped!
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_ECTGM_3.jpg


Test ECT with your ohm meter, If the battery neg cable has been disconnected for several minutes, the KAM should have cleared these codes..also it could be the distributor with a no spark. Or ignition switch.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 2:30 AM

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