Not Charging

Tiny
FIRE3397
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 131,500 MILES
How do I teel if my alternator is bad or if its my voltage regulator. The trouble light is on and the battery charge gauge is reading in the discharge area. The truck still started and ran for about a week and a half. The battery is about 8 mounths old. I am no great mechanic but need to try to fix myself. Thank You.
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Saturday, September 25th, 2010 AT 7:51 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • EXPERT
It sounds like the voltage regulator might be loose. Here is a guide to help you see how to test the connection and the alternator wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run down these guides and report back

Cheers
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Monday, September 27th, 2010 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
GEEGEE
  • MEMBER
I had this problem it was the fusible link was blown, FYI.
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Friday, August 10th, 2018 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
NICKVAL82
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
All of a sudden started losing lights, stereo, and all electrical components my AC quit blowing cold air and even on high was blowing slowly then the truck shut off completely. I had someone jump me and started up drove a few blocks and it shut off again. I got a second jump and allowed to charge a little longer drove a few more blocks than before and it shut off again. I figured it was the alternator not charging the battery next morning replaced alternator and fully charged battery before cranking up the truck, it started right up but when I put my volt meter on battery it only read about 12.5 volts and was slowly but steadily dropping voltage.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
What kind of alternator do you have ?
with internal or external voltage regulator?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_425.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic2_212.jpg



check fuses
check wiring
check for battery power at the B terminal
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARK MARIDUENA JR
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 156,000 MILES
I bought a new alternator about two months ago and a new battery at the same time. The alternator still was not charging the new battery. So then I ordered the voltage regulator plug in the ten plug that goes on the other side of the alternator and I drove it to O'Reilly's because it still was not charging correctly. So then they put the tester that they have on it had and said it was a alternator but then when I took it off they tested it inside and said it was not the alternator that it could have been the wiring. So they did not sell the wire for the alternator so I had it jumped off and I tried to head home with it, but I ended up stranded across the road beside a convenience store. Is there a fusible inline fuse or something that I am missing is that what could be what the problem is?
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I do not know why auto parts guys think they know everything about a vehicle they only sell parts nothing else. There are three fusible links and a fuse which any of them could be bad see picture to check them. They should have 12 volts on each side wiggle them as they may only have one or two strands connecting.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • EXPERT
You need to take it in to a shop to have it checked out unless you know how to do a voltage drop test on the battery cables. Had a customer throw 4 alternators on his car until he decided to come see me. When doing a voltage drop on the ground cable I found just a little over 4 volts still on the cable. Found the ground cable bolted at block was corroded. Cleaned the terminal and block and all was good. And if you want to know the voltage dropped down to.02 volts. If you have a decent volt meter I can guide you through the steps.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TMOS_1945
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 103,000 MILES
Its not charging silanoid and alternater were replaced and it still wont charge
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
I just had one in the shop with the same issue
turned out to be a bad ground wire
run a new ground wire from battery negative to one of the alternator bolts and retest
good luck

need manual CHECK IT @
http://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RIGIDCFLMAN@YAHOO.COM
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
After my third altenator and second battery my truck will not charge just runs till dead. Traced the wiring harness from volt reg to power box no bad wires I can see.175 amp mega fuse is good. All other fuses are good as well
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Could I please get the 8th digit of your vin number so I can get you the correct information. Sound's like a wiring issue though I wouldn't think you could get that many bad alternators in a row but anything is possible. Did you have the alternator's tested before you left the store?Also do you have a multimeter to do some testing?
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Measure the voltages on the wires that plug into the generator. Yellow must have 12 volts all the time. Green / red should have around 2.0 volts and the battery light should be on.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RIGIDCFLMAN@YAHOO.COM
  • MEMBER
Saturntech9 my eighth digit is a W and yes I have a meter
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Alright with the key in the run position at the alternator you should have battery voltage at the yellow wire with a white tracer. The orange wire with a light blue tracer. So what is the voltage at the battery with the engine idling?Is the battery light on?Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD F-150FORD F-150
Hello I have a 1996 ford taures 3.0 dohc 150K miles Recently I changed the condensor and the accumlator dryer. Once I changed those I vac the system down & tried to charge the system, it would not take a charge. The compresser did not kick on at all so I changed the cycling switch on the drier still nothing. I tried to to give an oil charge 8oz it took the oil but it would not take the R134. When I tried to charge the system the low side presure jumped really high and never came down. Any help would be great
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
Hello I jumped the cycling switch and the clucth did not kick in?Do I need to try and charge the system while jumping the cycling switch.
:cry:
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
I have manual turn knob in the dash.
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
And the test lamp "sorry
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
Hello me again, I have no power going to either wire
at the ccrm.

Thanks
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CEDRICACKER
  • MEMBER
I do have power at the cycling switch"purple wire"
& I have no power at either of the wires at the ccrm

Thanks
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Saturday, August 11th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM (Merged)

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