See my profile, I do not know your rig well. Check this stuff though:
Do you get 12V on the wire to "S" terminal, with it removed from the Solenoid and someone else holding the key in "start"?
Do you possibly have "S" and "I" wires swapped? (common to happen on older Ford type solenoids.)
May be the "actual" ignition switch gone bad, Don't know how yours is, on my CJ 5 the key moves a rod, rod actuates the actual switch, lower down on column.
Just trying to help, maybe for a faster fix,
Sent this to somebody else, may help you too!
Jill, see my profile, I believe if it were a fuse, It wouldn't work at all. I do not know your rig very well, however, I saw your question, unanswered, and thought MAYBE this might help you, get your Baby back on the road.
If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!
See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".
Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!
While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.
If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.
My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.
Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!
Please Reply, Good or Bad.
I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".
Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.
"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY
1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY
2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR
3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR
4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)
5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"
THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").
WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.
THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.
6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.
7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )
(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.
IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
Monday, April 12th, 2010 AT 3:46 PM