2003 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
My son has my old explorer the pass. Side power window stop working. Only would go down. I replced the window motor along with the cables. Still does not work. In trying to move the window brackets up to attach bolts. We powered up, and the problem is still the original issue, the window only goes down. What to do next? Thanks Ron
Ron I will send testing info via email, also in addition to the tests, look in the rubber conduit for a broken wire, this is pretty common.
Pinpoint Test J: Single Power Window Is Inoperative - Passenger Front Window
Under normal operation the passenger front window control switch receives power from the driver window control switch through circuit 170 (RD/LB). The passenger front window control switch provides power to the power window motor through circuit 334 (RD/YE) and ground through 333 (YE/RD) to operate the passenger front window down, and power through circuit 333 (YE/RD) and ground through 334 (RD/YE) to operate the passenger front window up.
When operating the passenger front window using the driver window control switch, power is sent to the passenger front window control switch through circuit 314 (TN/LB) and ground through 313 (WH/YE) to operate the passenger front window down, and power through circuit 313 (WH/YE) and ground through 314 (TN/LB) to operate the passenger front window up.
Ã Open in circuits 170 (RD/LB), 313 (WH/YE), 314 (TN/LB), 333 (YE/RD) or 334 (RD/YE).
Ã Inoperative driver window control switch.
Ã Inoperative passenger front window control switch.
Ã Inoperative passenger front window motor.
October, 21, 2010 AT 8:31 AM
If I can not check voltages because no equipment. If the passenger swith is bad, would it allow the window to go down only? And not to go up? If this is the problem, would the driver side switch still perform as normal and allow operation of the passenger side window to go up and down? The price of the new passenger switch is cheap, and I would replace it this could be problem. Thanks Ron
October, 21, 2010 AT 11:19 AM
A tester can be had for 10-15 dollars at radio shack, I don't recommend just throwing parts at the problem, My experience has been either broken wires, especially true if it will not go up from either switch, or a bad switch if it wont go up from just the passenger switch.
October, 21, 2010 AT 3:53 PM
I tried each switch to see if that was problem. I have a small tester and tested the master switch at drivers side. Only one wire was hot out of the 6 is that correct? I tried to look at the wiring in boots but could not tell. Any other ideas? Thanks Ron
October, 23, 2010 AT 12:39 PM
Driver's side wiring in the boot is usually where the wires break, it's the most used door and the wires bend each time it's opened and closed, I pull the boot out of the body, then push it into the door to check these wires, Door trim panel MUST be removed to allow you to put the boot back in place.
I sent a wiring test proceedure, so check the UP wires for power at the Passenger door while operating the driver's door master switch. These switches are now made in mexico and have a high failure rate. Ford dealers keep plenty of them in stock. However, I test the wires BEFORE switch replacement.