Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 106000 miles
I have had the vehilce for nearly 6 years, very well maintained and has been very reliable. Recently it has been nearly stalling or on one occasion has cut out completely while driving. I have not been able to isolate what causes it. It has occured while accelerating, cruising at varying speeds, stopping and turning. It acts almost as if it is out of fuel or being choked, then resumes normal operation after a few seconds. No check engine light, no suspicious sounds or odors. Any thoughts as to what it could be would be helpful. Thank you!
You need to check the fuel pump pressure. Then check all the vacum lines around on the top of the engine. Also, check the air hose that connect from the air intake to the engine head. You may need to do the cleaning in the air intake malnifold. Open the rubber duck that connect to the air intake malnifold. You need to remove it completely. The rubber duck I clean it with soap and wipe it out with clean tower. The air intake, right at the throttle switch, I clean it with a bottle label, injection throttle cleaner. Do not buy the injection cleaner.
Spray it around inside the throttle intake and clean it. Do it at least 5 times, and clean it. I found there was a lot of dirt and crease stucked around the inside of the throttle switch. After I started the engine, it was shaking a bit and took less than a minute to start. But when it started, the problem seems never came back again.
I show this procedure to some people with the Explorer problem. They called me back and said they fixed the problem.
May, 1, 2008 AT 1:05 PM
Thanks for the feedback, still having the same problem though. I have replaced the air filter, IAC valve (this was giving some problems before), PCV valve and cleaned the throttle body. I have also checked plug wires and vacuum lines with no evidence of damage or leaks. Since then the CEL has come on, code P0320 (Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction). This seems to be a non specific ignition issue. I have noticed that during the stalling/choking episodes, the tach and speedometer readings are very erratic, then the vehical returns to normal operation. Once again, any thoughs are appreciated.
May, 1, 2008 AT 5:47 PM
Try this one.
Tape a pair of wire to the fuel pump wiring. One to the ground, the vehicle body and the other to the wire after the fuel shut off switch. The other terminal you could tape the pair to a DC volt meter. What you should do at this point is to check the voltage that drives the fuel pump and also to check the fuel shut off switch.
If the meter displays 12v or lower when the engine shuts off in 30 seconds during the driving, you properly have the good fuel shut off switch and a chance you have the bad fuel pump. If the engine is stopping without the voltage reading about 30 second, you may have a bad fuel shut off switch, or the fuse holder, or you may check the wiring that drives the voltage through the fuel pump.
May, 7, 2008 AT 8:48 AM
Thanks again for the input. I had a guy check it out. Narrowed it down to the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). Replaced it, driven about 150 miles and so far so good. Darn thing only cost $15 at pepboys.