Check engine light on?

Tiny
ILIFTW8Z
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 140,000 MILES
Hi, now have changed EVAP sensor, pigtail, and alternator as well as battery drained. Got code to change fuel cap. Did that. Day later check engine light came back. Will check dash codes. However, now sometimes, when turning, car stalls, mechanic cannot mimic the problem. Fuel pump? Other possibilities?
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Tuesday, November 7th, 2017 AT 2:40 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
The list of possibilities is very long and we should always start with the basics to eliminate unnecessary work. Have the code checked to confirm if it has any connection with the stalling. Lets scan for codes to help fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

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Tuesday, November 7th, 2017 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
DAVESKI21
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,000 MILES
How do I erase continuous memory codes stored in OBD 1 PCM on the vehicle listed above? I've disconnected the battery, used the recommended method of pulling the jumper wire as the PCM is giving a readout, and the memory codes don't seem to go away! Also, are there any good code readers available for Ford OBD1 systems? Thank you.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

I have used 2 different scanners for OBD1. My professional scanner at work is an old Snap-On MT26000 otherwise know as "The Brick" worked great on OBD1 systems but is obsolete. New scanners like I use at home is made by Innova and available at most auto parts stores and is around $250.00. They offer an adapter to use OBD1 plugs and be compatible with OBD1 systems. If you don't want to buy one maybe you might know someone who has one and will let you use it. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVESKI21
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Would Ford's Star scanner work if I can find one?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Yes, the Ford Star scanner also know as the Tech 1 will work to retrieve codes. Hope this helps and keep us updated as to what happens. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
H2ODUDE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 225,000 MILES
I've posted this before but don't see it listed anywhere anymore.
My Check Engine light comes on 2 to 10 minutes after starting the vehicle. If I shut the ignition off and restart it immediately, the Check Engine light will be off and come back on in 2 to 10 minutes of running. Local mechanic has connected an OBDII several times and there are no codes stored indicating any problems.
Any suggestions?
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FLEXY5
  • MECHANIC
  • 512 POSTS
Did the mechanic get any response through the OBDII connection? Some of the early model 95's had connectors for both diagnostic computers. However, these vehicles weren't hooked into the OBDII connectors as they were still EEC IV computers. Try looking under the hood on the driver's side near the relays or fuses. There may be a connector labeled EEC.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:31 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HAMBONERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD EXPLORER
My sons 94 exploer v-6 will crank and idle perfect for 3-4 minutes, then CHECK ENGINE light comes on and the engine will start a slight rough idle. When the idle get rough it starts putting out black smoke. Raw unburnt fuel. I have checked and regapped the plugs. Could this be O2 sensor or where else should I look? Seems like it is intermittent and light will clear itself and come back. Any ideas appreciated.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
INDYUKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 416 POSTS
Are you able to scan the computer for the fault codes the check engine light indicates are stored there? If you could get those codes, then that would give you an idea of what's happening. Let us know too.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
You need to pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or “monitors” are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place.
There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should not be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer.
After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights” that are set based on a pre-set mileage.
To start testing for the check engine light, you’ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
INDYUKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 416 POSTS
Service Writer explained that one very well. Thank you.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAZZYRIPPLE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 197,000 MILES
Have a 94 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition that the light came on the dash saying Check Engine Soon. How can I manually run the dignostic codes and where can I find the codes list for it. I'd like to be able to do this without having to take it to a shop or Autozone to have scanned. Please help if you can.

Thank you in advance.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/71487_img025_1.jpg

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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Hello

You can ground the DLC (Data Link Connector) which is located in the right front inner fender panel. When you do this, it will cause the engine light to flash with pauses. To read the code(s) given, follow instructions below.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_177.jpg



FIGURE 1


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname3_30.jpg



Post the code and I will follow up with diagnosis.

Thanks for using 2CarPros.com !
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RLOMBARD1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,000 MILES
When cold runs fine for about a minute or two, It over fuels and chuges and smokes black and stauls out. This just started after I boasted it because it set for 2weeks in -35 wheather. And I touch the two cables to geither by mistake.I tryed to fined codes with scanner but there was no codes, and it will only go 50 kms per hour then it will kick in and run good for few seconds. Using lots of fuel
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUSTANG87
  • MECHANIC
  • 261 POSTS
Try checking the catalic converter possibly plugin up. Coils can be bad. Oxigen sensors. Start by sensors. Try getting some used ones at a junkyard just so u can save money looking for the problem.
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Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 2:33 PM (Merged)

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