Check Engine Light

I just want to say first, are they charging you everytime that you go to them and have the computer scanned, because if they are, please stop, you can get free computer scans at autozone or your local parts place, those dealers want anywhere from 90 dollars to a 125 dollars just to scan your car, noway if i can save someone that kind of money , then i will. okay now. your problem could be several other things like a fuel pressure regulator to the mass air flow sensor or the egr valve. or even the mapp sensor can give those symptoms, but the first thing I would want you to recheck is the idle air control valve, that is usually the problem when symptoms like yours occur, and because it was recently replaced does not mean that it wasnt faulty or now is faulty. I would also have your throttle body cleaned out along with the throttle plate , change pcv and breather. but dont get ripped off by the dealer.

Follow this guide to scan the car yourself

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thank you for the response - No, they are not charging me each time I go in. My car had what they call an "after-market warranty" which expired at the end of April (6 years/100k miles). I'm not sure why they call it "after-market" because we bought it when we bought the car new. Prior to the warranty expiration, everything was covered less a $100 deductible. At this point, though, anything that has to be repaired is out of our pocket.

Did you every solve your problem? I have the exact! same problem with my 2002 Escape with almost the same mileage. any learning would be appreciated

My check engine light on 02 escape keeps coming on.it is code 402. exhaust reciculation (egr) valve excessive flow detected.i changed egr valve, differential pressure feedback,and egr vaccum regulator valve.when i first start it up it gets a miss and once in a while while driving especially on a hill it will miss

I don't have a great answer for you. Have you replaced the spark plugs? I have 2 2002 Ford Escapes. I will only use Autolite Double Platinum plugs. New plugs doesn't mean that you could not get a bad one.

We have to think about excessive flow through the EGR. Could you have a clog or obstruction in the air intake or clogged air filter or something causing the engine to suck too hard on the EGR? The last time I replaced my air filter, squarrels had built a nest inside the air filter housing.

Go to an auto parts store and have them check your codes. We have this exact same symptom and it is one of the coil packs generating an occasional missfire.

Lugging the engine seems to accentuate the problem on our vehicle (going up hill prior to downshift).

If you have 165k on the original spark plugs, I would say those need to be replaced as well. I just know that the coil packs on these vehicles are a known annoyance.

I hope that is helpful.

I have a 2002 Ford Escape that has had it's check engine light on for 11 days now. I took it to Auto Zone and had it checked out and was told that it was a ERG system fault (exhaust gas recirculation) It had detected too much flow on the EGR system.

They said the probable causes were either the EGR valve was stuck open, needed replaced or it was the EGR pressure sensor that needed replaced.

Well, my father and husband took the old valve out and cleaned it and put it back in place. It seemed to work okay for the rest of that day. Now it has started to idle rough and it cut out on me at a red light today.

Should I have replaced the entire valve? Should I go ahead and replace the sensor too. What about replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel system?

I am willing to take any and all suggestions on what to do. We only have 2 cars and my husband must get to work. However, I have 2 active boys at home and have many visits to the ER...I can't be home with out a safe running car.

Thank you ~
Jody Payne

Do some web searching on the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor) and you'll find that many mechanics 'think' the EGR should be replaced when its really the DPFE. Its ~$30 part and takes only a minute to replace.

This should get you closer to a solution.

Good Luck!

-Mike

My engine light is back on!

This is the same issue I have experienced last year. It occurs only when the outside temperature is below freezing even the engine is warm.

I took this to the dealer #1 who indicated that the coil on cylinder #1 is bad. Replaced it and it did not fix the issue. Swapped the coils and confirmed that it is not a coil issue. Swapped the fuel injectors as well to confirm is not fuel system related.

Drove it fine last summer and fall. Just when it got cold, the light came back on.

I have taken the car to dealer #2 who indicated that the issue is a bad PCM and it will cost over $1,000 to fix. I had problem believe this it is PCM related because it only happens during the winter. If it is truly a PCM electrical issue, then why is it not occurring during the summer?

Could this be related to the mass air flow sensor? Or the throttle position sensor?

Thanks,
Jay

my wife has a '03 escape

with her escape, we had some issues with every now and then a fast/ repetitive/ studder/ skip mainly experienced when pulling a slight incline

drove me crazy for a while!

the check engine light did not come on

you said yours did?

what are/ were the "exact" code number(s), not what they interpreted them to mean?

you sorta failed to explain in full what bad things it is doing?

the medic

The error code is P0351, Same code I got at AutoZone and O'Reilly. It is also the same code I got last year.

The vehicle drives Ok. No issue. Had the same issue last year and it resulted in plugging my cat converter (the one after the y-pipe and under the vehicle). I replaced the cat converter last Spring. I am concerned that if I continue to drive the vehicle in it current condition, I will damage another cat converter.

What is the root cause of this issue?

Thanks,
Jay

duh!

musta missed the "title" of your post

seems #1 coil is the center of attention with this code

it does not necessarily mean the coil is bad, the connector/ connection/ wiring may be the problem

check the connector to the coil, look for damage where they mate, disfiguration/ melting due to heat

maybe the metal in the connector gets shoved back or sideways when it plugs into it's mate

(i'm getting this info from a pal who owns a production engine rebuild shop)

he also recommends the eliminating the "at the coil" possibility

obtain a new or salvage yard connector (insure the "locks" are not broken or sloppy) for the coil/ new boot and spring down to the spark plug/ insure the plug gap is correct, use dielectric grease on the connections

and yes, the pcm may be bad and the problem

the medic

Thank you for the suggestion. Will check the connector again.

Any idea why this has a temperature component? Works fine with temperatures above freezing then light comes back when outside temps fall below freezing even if engine is warm?

Thanks,
Jay

POSSIBLY EXPANSION/ CONTRACTION OF THE PLASTIC/ CONNECTOR/ OR A WIRE

THE MEDIC

I am having a presistant engine line on issue. I have taken the car to AutoZone and got a P3501. The printout indicates possible defective ignition coil #1, connector, wirings (12v and the server) or PCM. I have swapped coil and spark plug with cylinder #6 and continue to get the P3501 error.
I took the vehicle to the dealer #1 who confirmed PCM and wiring are good and it must be the coil. I indicated that I have already swapped the coil and spark plug. They still said it must coil #1. They reset the codes. I purchased and new coil #1 from dealer and replaced it. I drove for a couple of days and then got the engine light and same code again!
I took the vehicle to dealer #2 who confirmed all is Ok (Wiring PCM and Coil). They reset the codes. Drove for a couple of days and got the engine light on again!
The engine light is usually triggered when starting the vehicle and it is very cold outside
What are some other possibilities? What would you recommend doing next?
Thanks,
Jay

just an idea. is there any dirt or grease down in the #1 hole the plug goes into? the plug will ground at the threads. not usually a problem but easy to check. also this misfire could be an injector on number one also. make sure its plugged in properly. these plugs like t get brittle and the tabs break off. if that's ok swap the injector as you did the coil if youre up to it. lastly you may have a non visible crack in the plastic intake at cyl 1. that would explain the more prevalent code when cold. as the intake heats up it expands closing up the vac leak

It probably needs a PCM. Only other thing is swap the ground at PCM for coil driver 2 to 1. If code stays as p0351 and not p0352 it needs PCM. If it changes you have a wiring issue. Easy to do PCM is right there

Thank you for the reply. The coil area is clean. So I will check the injectors and intake manifold next. Why would a fuel injector issue resulght in s P3501 code? Thought this was limited to electrical issues. Thanks, Jay

Thank you for the feedback.

I am not sure how to switch the ground for the coil at the PCM. Can you explain this further?

Another possibility I was thinking was to purchase a used wire harness and swap with the existing one. If this fixes the issue, then this wold confirm it is a wiring issue and the issue is solved. If not, then I will have to purchase a used PCM and ask a qualified repair shop to swap it for me. Does anybody have experience with swapping PCMs? Cost? Hope I can do this without having to go to the dealership to reduce cost.

Thanks,
Jay

I cnt actually find a p3501 code but if you have a misfire code it jut means the cylinder is dead not necessarily just the spark. loss of air, comprssion, spark, or fuel will cause a misfire code

Get wiring diagram of PCM and take off red cap on inside of PCM connector in harness and release the terminals for coil one and two and swap it and recheck for code. Can't drive like this unless you 1 and 2 coil connectors as well

The code is actually P0351. Sorry. Could this also be an oxygen sensor or not?

Five days ago the engine light came on. We parked the car until yesterday although the car was running fine when it was parked. Yesterday when I opened the door the factory alarm began going off. (lights flashing and horn blowing). So, I put the key in the ignition hoping that it would stop the alarm but it did not. So, I disconnected the negative battery cable to stop the alarm and waited a few minutes and then reconnected the cable but the alarm continued. I left the battery disconnected all night and then reconnected this morning and the alarm is still going off. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you!

I've had that happen to me a few times. All you have to do is connect all battery terminals again, let the alarm go off. Close all doors and then put your key into the door lock, and then move it back and forth to lock and unlock the doors. Solves the problem for me every time.
Good luck.

ok. now weve got something. theres a service bulletin by ford that says this code can be set by damaged wire or connection at the PCM for this coil pack. check the light green wire with the white stripe at the PCM plug for female terminal damage or insulation damage. the pc is in the middle of the firewall in the engine compartment I a little recess

My 2002 4x4 ford escape engine light is on and staying on. We ran is on the computer and the code p0401 came up. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insuffient Detected). What does this mean and how can I fix it?

[quote:9c382f4894="delliott"]My 2002 4x4 ford escape engine light is on and staying on. We ran is on the computer and the code p0401 came up. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insuffient Detected). What does this mean and how can I fix it?[/quote:9c382f4894]

It could be a bad EGR valve. Seems strange on such a new vehicle, but the trouble shooting for this code is to inspec the EGR valve and piping for obstructions and damaged or bad parts. If nothing is found it calls for doing a test with a scan tool to test the system. I am going to cut and paste the D/O of this code. Try not to have too much fun reading. :wink:

Circuit Description

The PCM tests the EGR system during deceleration by momentarily commanding the EGR valve open while monitoring the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal. When the EGR valve is opened, the PCM should see a proportional increase in MAR If the expected increase in MAP is not seen, the PCM notes the amount of error that was detected and adjusts an internal fail counter towards a fail threshold level. When the fail counter exceeds the fail threshold level, the PCM will set DTC P0401. The number of test samples required to accomplish this may vary according to the amount of detected flow error.

Normally, the PCM will only allow one EGR flow test sample to be taken during an ignition cycle. To aid in verifying a repair, the PCM allows twelve test samples during the first ignition cycle following a scan tool Clear Info or a battery disconnect. Between nine and twelve samples should be sufficient for the PCM to determine adequate EGR flow and pass the EGR test if the system is operating correctly.

Conditions for Running the DTC



No Throttle Position (TP) sensor, Vehicle Speed (VSS) sensor, Misfire, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, Idle speed, EGR Pintle Position, ECT sensor, Fuel injector fault(s), Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor, or MAF sensor DTC(s) set.
Barometric pressure (BARO) is greater than 70 kPa.
Engine coolant temperature is greater than 75°C (167°F).
Intake air temperature is greater than 80°C (176°F).
Engine speed is between 900 RPM and 1400 RPM.
IAC position is steady.
Vehicle speed is greater than 25 MPH.
The throttle is closed.
Commanded state of the A/C relay is steady.
Conditions for Setting the DTC



MAP changes monitored during the EGR flow test indicate insufficient EGR flow.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets



The PCM will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) during the first trip in which the diagnostic test has been run and failed.
The PCM will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame and Fail Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC



The PCM will turn the MIL OFF during the third consecutive trip in which the diagnostic has been run and passed.
The history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a malfunction.
The DTC can be cleared by using the scan tool Clear Info function or by disconnecting the PCM battery feed.
Diagnostic Aids

Important: If the EGR valve shows signs of excessive heat, check the exhaust system for blockage (possibly a plugged catalytic converter) using the Restricted Exhaust System Check. See: Diagnosis By Symptom\Restricted Exhaust System Check

To verify a repair, clear info with the scan tool and run the EGR flow test keeping the following items in mind:



The PCM will only run the EGR flow test during a gradual deceleration.
The PCM will only run the EGR test during a closed throttle condition.
The PCM will only run the EGR test at vehicle speeds above 25 MPH.
Several deceleration cycles will be necessary to run a sufficient number of EGR flow test samples (9-12).
The EGR Test Counter displayed on the scan tool can be useful in determining that the EGR flow test is running and to keep track of the number of test samples taken. The counter will increment each time a test sample is taken.
Check for the following conditions:



Vacuum restriction to the MAP sensor. A restriction to the MAP sensor can cause the EGR flow test to fail due to insufficient MAP changes being monitored during the test. Check for objects blocking the vacuum to the MAP sensor. Also check for kinked or pinched MAP sensor vacuum hoses (if equipped.)
Poor connection or damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
If the harness appears to be OK, observe the Actual EGR Position display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EGR valve. A change in the display will indicate the location of the malfunction.
Reviewing the Fail Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.

Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Escape 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 2002 ford escape. Lately it has been running rough and chugging. When I sit at a light, it sputters and idles rough. I have ran 1 bottle of fuel cleaner and it seemed to do ok, then we had a lot of damp weather and it started to act up again. So a second bottle went it. So far no change. Any idea?

We have the same thing going on with our escape right now. It is most likely a misfire typically caused by a defective coil pack on one of your spark plugs.

They are about $65 a piece and easy to replace on the front three cylinders 3,4,5, but the back three 1, 2 and 3 are not so easy. you have to pull the upper intake manifold to remove and replace them.

I have been told that most auto parts stores will check your codes for you with a scan tool and that if your car has generated a code (check engine light ilumiated) you can find out which cylinder is misfiring and replace that pack. I plan to do this tonight. Anyway, I hope that helps.

over the last 4 months i have been replacing the ignition coils at one per month. i should have replaced them all at once and saved time. The symptom each time would be a hiccup in the engine at idle that would progressively get worse to where the engine ran rough. The engine light eventually came on so i knew what to replace and the problem stopped until the next month when the next coil went bad .A similar symptom of the engine hiccup started again last week. I decided to replace the last two ignition coils to be done with the problem, but the hiccup is still there. I checked to ensure that i had hooked everything up correctly.

The hiccup is only noticeable when engine is cold at this point. it is very infrequent and random.the engine light has not come on so there are no codes.

check fue pressure and see who much voltage is going to coils. it may be to high and burnging them up.

WHAT ARE THE ****EXACT**** CODE NUMBERS COMING UP WHEN THE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON???.........NOT SOMEONE'S INTERPRETATION

A WHILE BACK HAD THE "BAD COIL" WITH WIFE'S '03 W/ 3.0L..........IT WOULD GIVE REAL FAST SLIGHTLY JERKY HESITATIONS FOR ABOUT 2 SECONDS, WHILE CLIMBING ANY INCLINE, THEN IT WOULD STOP

I NEVER GOT A CODE OR NOTHIN'---AFTER SOME PARTS CHANGING AND ELIMINATIONS I GOT IT STRAIGHT

A BETTER DESCRIPTION OF "HICCUP" MIGHT HELP

DEPENDING ON THE CODE(S) IT COULD BE ANOTHER PROBLEM

CONTINUE WITH THE TESTING THAT hmac300 PRESCRIBED

AT MINIMUM, TELL US WHAT YOUR ALTERNATOR IS PUTTING OUT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzz7P3qNHcE

KEEP US INFORMED

THE MEDIC