1994 Ford Crown Victoria V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles
I have been having a bit of a headache with this car, as it has 180,000 or so on it (my odometer failed about 5000 into me owning the vehicle) put in about 4000 into the car in tires, breaks, power steering, Rebuilt Transmission, Etc. The day I got it back from my mechanic (Yesterday 10-21-08), I was driving it home and noticed it was shifting ruff. Initially when accelerating it didn't seem to catch into gear as it should and felt like I had no acceleration / torque. Then at about half throttle to the floor it seems it would slip into gear and would accelerate as it should. All shifts seem too slip and shift too hard. Also I heard a real loud squeaking, when I got onto the Highway. The Loudness would decrease at a stoplight, but was still there. I'm supprised I even noticed it, because I have about a 100-120 deceble sterio in the car and usualy have it at about 90-100 decebles while driving. The squeak continued for a few miles, tell I finally kicked the throttle down and hard accelerated to 70. Then the squeak stopped and I haven't heard it since. Not sure if this had to do with the Transmission rebuild or not.
I took it back in Today (10-22-08) to the mechanic and he is going to look at it. He said that he used a new torque converter, completely flushed the cooler, radiator, tranny, and the transfer case (or the thing at the end of the AT that couples to the drive shaft). Any way it should be all new fluid top to bottom. I had him use Amsoil Synthetic ATF due to word of mouth.
Also there was a metal rattle originally, that I was concerned with and he said it was probably the heat-shields on the Catalytic Converter. After the service it is still there. I was wondering could this noise be from the TQ? After the Trans rebuild he said they diagnosed it to inside the Catalytic Converter. Is he right?
Anyway, It didn't seem like there was a fresh rebuilt transmission or that there was one, but the TQ was shot, or wasn't installed right.
What do you guys think? We have had other issues from this mechanic similar to this but not transmission related.
Transmission......there is a Technical Service Bulletin out on AT Fluid and shudder. So there is a concern on what you use. I have attached that for you to review. Improper fluid can cause you many problems.
1992-95 CROWN VICTORIA
1994-95 MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
1992-95 GRAND MARQUIS, TOWN CAR
1993-95 MARK VIII
Torque converter clutch shudder or vibration may occur under light to moderate acceleration above 56 km/h (35 mph) while in 3rd or 4th gear or on 3-4/4-3 shifts. This condition may be more noticeable on higher mileage vehicles (24,000+ km (15,000+ mi)) when the torque converter clutch engages or disengages on light to moderate acceleration.
Perform normal diagnostics and change the transmission fluid. Changing the transmission fluid should reduce the possibility of shudder/vibration. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
1. Drain all transmission fluid including the torque converter. Completely drain the cooler and cooler lines. Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual, Section 07-01, for more details.
NOTE : IF TORQUE CONVERTER SHUDDER OCCURS BELOW 11,250 km (7,000 MILES) OR ABOVE 32,000 km (20,000 MILES), THE CONCERN IS DUE TO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID CONTAMINATION AND/OR BREAKDOWN. PROCEED TO STEP 7.
NOTE : IF TORQUE CONVERTER SHUDDER OCCURS BETWEEN 11,250 km (7,000 MILES) AND 32,000 km (20,000 MILES), THE CONVERTER MAY BE AT FAULT. PROCEED TO STEP 2.
2. Remove the transmission and replace the torque converter.
3. Remove the transmission pan and clean the pan and magnet.
4. Inspect the transmission gasket and filter. Reuse the pan gasket and filter if they are not damaged.
5. Reinstall the transmission filter, pan gasket and pan.
6. Reinstall the transmission.
7. Verify that bulk fluid does not have moisture contamination. If suspected, use quart containers of MERCON(R). Refill transmission with the proper amount of Motorcraft MERCON(R) Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (XT-2-QDX).
NOTE : REPLACE THE TORQUE CONVERTER IF THE SHUDDER RETURNS IN LESS THAN 16,000 km (10,000) MILES FOLLOWING THE FLUID CHANGE.
This article supersedes TSB 01-15-7 to update the vehicle application chart.
MERCON(R) Automatic Transmission Fluid is being replaced by MERCON(R) V as a service fluid.
Beginning immediately all automatic transmission / transaxle applications requiring MERCON(R) can now be serviced using MERCON(R) V or MERCON(R) Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON(R) / MERCON(R) V. After July 1, 2007, MERCON(R) Automatic Transmission Fluid will no longer be manufactured, therefore, availability of this fluid will only continue for however long it takes to deplete what remains in inventory.
Service automatic transmissions requiring MERCON(R) with MERCON(R) V or MERCON(R) Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON(R) / MERCON(R) V
For proper fluid application on current and past model vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions I transaxles refer to the fluid usage chart. (Figure 1)
CAUTION AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSAXLES THAT REQUIRE MERCON V SHOULD STILL ONLY USE MERCON(R) V OR DUAL USAGE FLUID LABELED MERCON(R) / MERCON(R) V.
CAUTION MERCON(R) SP, MOTORCRAFT PREMIUM AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID AND MOTORCRAFT M5 ATFS ARE UNIQUE FLUIDS AND MUST BE USED IN APPLICATIONS RECOMMENDING THAT PARTICULAR FLUID.
USE OF ANY OTHER FLUID MAY CAUSE REDUCED FUNCTIONALITY OR TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION THE FUNCTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS OF FLUIDS FOR CVT TRANSMISSIONS ARE VERY DIFFERENT THAN THOSE OF OTHER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS (ATFS).
USE OF A FLUID OTHER THAN MOTORCRAFT CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE CHAIN TYPE TRANSMISSION FLUID OR ONE LABELED AS MEETING MERCON(R) C WILL CAUSE FUNCTIONALITY CONCERNS AND INTERNAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION DO NOT USE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID SUPPLEMENTS, ADDITIVES, TREATMENTS OR CLEANING AGENTS.
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only
As for the torque converter. From my experience, if it isn't in there right you can not bolt things up together. There just isn't enough room. However, if he replaced it I know those things drink a ton of fluid. Lots of chambers. So you really need to keep checking the fluid level and it may be a little rough until it is full of fluid. Definitely keep an eye on the fluid level as it may go down several times.
As for the rattle, converter and mufflers can collapse internally and then you will hear the items rattling around. Your best bet is to start the car and get right next to it and see what you hear. Look at all the items around it. There may be something broke loose and vibrating. So this you could do yourself. If unsure - go to a muffler shop and let them put it up on the rack to check it out.
Sometimes I find it best to mark parts in a way nobody knows but you. Then when you get it back look at it for the marks.
If you have had similar issues then yes, time to change. To me that feeling you get is probably the right one, especially if you have had similar issues........move on.
You could stop by a transmission shop and see if for free they could check it out to see if there was anything wrong.
Sometimes when transmission are changed, they give you a piece of paper with directions on it for proper break in of the transmission so it/the computer can learn how you drive and get that in memory. I didn't see this for your vehicle though in my review.
Not sure if this helps - but I would change mechanics if you are getting untrusting.