Engine revving while driving and worse with clutch depressed.

Tiny
HELP99RANGER
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 200,000 MILES
Engine revs like mad anytime you aggressively accelerate while driving. Then it continues to rise without pressure on the accelerator. It's like driving on cruise control that gets faster. If clutch is depressed the revving raises to the point that it sounds as it will blow up. If I shut it off, it revs at startup and smoothes out to perform normally until aggressively accelerated again. If you ease along, slowly pushing the gas. Every second monitoring it while shifting, backing off every so often.I can drive 20 minutes pushing to 45 (when I'm really good, it's so very touchy) or so before it will ultimately do it. Have also found if I come to a stop (hard to do since it revs so high, I'm eating my brakes) and go into reverse, back to 1st, reverse, 1st, reverse, 1st.5 or six times it evens out and resets itself. It's not showing any codes. Has had full tune up, checked for vacuum leaks (none), new 02 sensor. Also, I can minimize its revving by running it extremely low in the gears (ie, in 4th at 30 mph, 5th at 40, my tachometer hasn't accurately worked for years, it either lays flat, flutters or spikes). It mostly occurs when in 4th or 5th. Interesting side note, if I shut it off and restart it. The gas gauge reads as empty for a couple of miles (even when full) and then goes to its correct position and functions normally. And, when it first started happening, I was able to shut it off and restart it in rapid succession, now.I have to wait a 30 secs to a minute or it won't turn over. Making its timing in traffic difficult to say the least. And, reversing at a stop light and going forward and reversing is unsettling to the drivers behind me, ha! It's got to be something with fuel intake and its regulation, yes? I'm definitely burning extra gas and getting terrible mileage. What part, what sensor is the culprit? Thank you for any help you can offer! Have a great day!
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Saturday, May 3rd, 2014 AT 6:46 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Ck. To make sure the throttle is returning properly. You should also have the throttle position sensor checked.
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Saturday, May 3rd, 2014 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
HELP99RANGER
  • MEMBER
How would I know the old one is bad? What tests can be performed on it once removed?
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Sunday, May 4th, 2014 AT 4:08 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
U will need to take it and have someone hook up a scanner to check the sensor.
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Monday, May 5th, 2014 AT 5:41 AM
Tiny
HELP99RANGER
  • MEMBER
I purchased a throttle position sensor yesterday and put it on this morning. No change, nothing. At lunch, today, I was taking a hard look at my engine and was taking a look at the idle air control valve (which was something my mechanic had taken off several times and cleaned, hoping it was that. Never had an effect, though). But, looking at it today and reading in my Haynes book about how necessary it was to remove the old gasket without harming the mating plates. It appeared to not even have a gasket. I said, "What the heck and bought a new one on my way home and put it on in the parking lot. Bam! Night and day difference, right from the crank. Easy, smooth, perfect. It is FIXED! It was the idle air control valve! Driving home today was the first time in 6/7 months that I've been able to drive over 55! I'm so psyched that I don't even care about the extra purchase of the throttle position sensor. Thanks anyway!
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Monday, May 5th, 2014 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
I'm so happy for you. Congrads.
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Monday, May 5th, 2014 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
SHANEMJEFFERS
  • MEMBER
I had the same problem with my 2000 ranger, just unplugged my IAC and it was back to normal. Glad you figured it out :-)
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Tuesday, August 12th, 2014 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
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That my help
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Saturday, October 18th, 2014 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Congrads again
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Saturday, October 18th, 2014 AT 6:32 AM

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