Hi Dan. Welcome to the forum. Can you hear the motor trying to run? If not, start by checking for broken or frayed wires in the rubber tube between the driver's door hinges. Although not very common, a passenger window that only runs in one direction can be caused by either that window switch or the driver's switch, regardless of which one is being activated. Depending on the direction, a passenger window motor is grounded through one of the two circuits going through the driver's switch.
Typically that's what happens first when one wire breaks between the door hinges. The window will only work in one direction from the passenger switch, but it won't work in either direction from the driver's switch. Later, when the second wire breaks, the window won't move at all.
If the window went from working fine one day to suddenly not working in either direction from either switch, it is time to check for voltage at the motor. Remove the trim panel to access the connector. You can unplug the connector for testing if you're using a test light, but if you're using an inexpensive digital voltmeter, it is best, if possible, to make the measurements with the motor still connected. A carbon track inside the wire insulation at the point of a break will let enough current through to be picked up by the voltmeter which will give a false reading. The test light draws more current than can get through that carbon track so its results will be more accurate. By leaving the motor connected when using a voltmeter, the motor will try to draw so much current that the break in the circuit will be evident.
When testing the two wires at the motor, both should have continuity to ground when all switches are released. When either switch is pressed, one motor wire should have 12 volts. When the switch is moved to the other direction, the other wire should have 12 volts. If that's what you find, suspect a defective motor, but double-check it with a continuity test.
Friday, September 10th, 2010 AT 1:25 AM