First off Thanks, great site.
As listed above I just had the Heads replaced. Stuck valve. I thought after the repair I would have Pep back in the truck. I did not. Also have what sounds like pouring water in the heater core.
Here is what was done, Idler arm had froze and check engine light came on too. Had the Idler arm and waterpump replaced as well as new belt and tune up. Plugs, wires and rotor button distributer cap.
Check engine light still on, that when they found the valve issue, Replace heads, all gaskets and thermostat.
Low power on bottom end.
That was while on vacation so another state. When I got home I took it to my Transmission place to see if there was a problem with the shift points. They found that the transfer case was binding and stated it would feel simular to have the parking brake slightly on. After those repairs, he placed it on his diag computer and saw that while in idle timing is at 6 degrees retarded. Said it should be at 0 for this engine. He said it would have to be put on a scope to adjust correctly that moving the cap would not adjust the computer.
So here is the question.
Is the info about the timing correct?
How do I get the air all the way out of the heater core. I have somewhat bleed it out better but not gone.
Better pep, but not where it should be. Really seems to pep up at 3000 rpm.
Thanks for any info or any details needed.