Which line? I suspect no one replied so far because if you have to ask, there are also likely to be a lot of things you can do to run into problems, and they don't want to get involved.
First of all, since you're dealing with brake fluid, be very careful to not get ANY petroleum product in the brake fluid. Simply wiping engine oil or transmission fluid off your fingers with a rag, then touching the rubber bladder seal under the reservoir cap, will leave enough residue to destroy rubber brake parts. The only proper fix is to replace every rubber part and every part with rubber parts inside, including the master cylinder.
Next, never let the reservoir or any container of brake fluid to sit open. The fluid will absorb moisture from the air which will lower the fluid's boiling point and promote corrosion of metal parts. Boiling water will vaporize and compress which leads to a mushy pedal and brake fade.
A section of a steel line can be spliced in, but you'll need to know how to make double flares. Absolutely do not use compression fittings. Lawyers love to find things like that. The easiest way to replace a steel line under the frame is to replace the entire line from connector to connector. You might need a special size connector at the front. You can buy an adapter to use with a standard replacement line, or you can buy a 6" section with the proper connector already installed, then use a union to connect it to a standard line. If you're good at making double flares, you can reuse the old connector.
You'll need to plan on where you can bleed the air out of the new line. You will avoid a lot of misery if you watch that the fluid in the reservoir never runs empty. A simple trick to stop the fluid from running out is to use a stick to prop the brake pedal down about two inches. Gravity won't be strong enough to pull the fluid out of the reservoir while you work on the system.
Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 AT 4:12 PM